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Europe Uncategorized

Life on the Rails: In praise of the road well traveled

In my last post before we left for a stint living in Berlin, I made a list of all the things I still wanted to do in the Cotswolds. Now that we would be less than a two-hour flight away, I thought I would finally get around to marking some things off this Cotswold bucket list.Our first visit back to the Cotswolds was last weekend, and I managed do exactly none of them. Part of the problem is that we like the things we usually do so much that we lack the motivation to do anything else. With walks through scenery like this just outside our front door, who could argue?

We even like the things we don’t like, or more precisely, we love to hate the same things over and over again. Case in point: we went to dinner with our old chums, Rupert and Ralph, at our local inn, the Wheatsheaf, on the Friday night of our visit. The menu featured a battered brill with petite pois and potatoes that sounded suspiciously like fish and chips for £25. Still, two of our party chose to order it, making a point of telling the waiter they would have the “£25 fish and chips.” It was delicious if ridiculously priced, and for the remainder of the weekend we revelled in repeatedly sharing our outrage. Undoubtedly we’ll eat there again next time we’re in town.

My husband’s and my travel predilections are so strong that our Facebook posts look like they’re on an annual repeat cycle, and our friend Rupert likes to poke fun at our predictability. “Back on the rails,” he’ll note every time he recognizes one of our check-ins at favorite restaurant. “Choo choo” is another shorthand favorite.

He is perhaps to blame for why I am feeling a bit defensive about taking the road well traveled. It is not a fashionable choice as anyone who knows the last three lines from Robert Frost’s famous poem will tell you.

Two roads diverged in a wood, and I—
I took the one less traveled by,
And that has made all the difference.

And everyone knows these lines of the poem because they are ubiquitous. Just yesterday I saw them artfully scrawled on a chalkboard in a Scandinavian clothing store in Berlin. This ubiquity, of course, defeats the whole purpose. If everyone takes the road less traveled, then it’s no longer the road less traveled. The road less traveled becomes nothing more than a formula, the irony of which found expression last year in the normcore movement, an equally self-aware propensity to be anti-fashion (think mom jeans, polo shirts). But I digress from my point, which is the first three lines of the poem. They’re less well known (the road less traveled, if you will), and I take my inspiration there:

Two roads diverged in a yellow wood,
And sorry I could not travel both
And be one traveler, long I stood

Of our beloved homes in California and the Cotswolds, my husband has often said how he wants to live in both at once. We long to “travel both and be one traveler,” but, in the absence of the science to enable that, we have settled on trying to craft a nomadic life so that we may spend time in both. The same applies to visiting other places we love and repeating the experiences from previous visits. In doing so, we create a routine that is nothing less than a sense of home. We are carving out a way to “be one traveler” however infrequently we visit.

One such beloved spot is Paris. We have a visit planned in May, but I can tell you now how the weekend will go. We will stay in a charming but microscopic hotel room on the Île Saint-Louis from where each morning we will jog a loop around the islands before breakfasting at the bar at le Louis IX, which seems to be a favorite of Parisian garbage collectors. Then we will rent bikes and ride to the Eiffel Tower before lunching on the terraces of Tribeca on the pedestrianized market street, Rue Cler. There we will admire the manners of small French children out for lunch with their families and envy the achingly chic French teenagers smoking Gauloises between bites of steak tartare.

Picture of Au Petit Fer A Cheval from 2011. Look on Facebook for another one just like it next month.

In the early evening we will head over to Le Marais, where we will drink a glass of wine at La Belle Hortense, a combination bookshop and wine bar. I will wander around the shop caressing the books and wishing I could read French. I may buy one anyway. Once we spy a free table outside at the bar across the street, Au Petit Fer à Cheval, we will rush over and grab it and drink more wine than we meant to before heading to the establishment next door, Les Philosophes, for dinner. The only Parisians in the place will be the waiters, who will accept my husband’s request for his steak to be “bien cuit” with a surprising lack of fuss; I will have the honeyed duck confit. After dinner we’ll stumble back across Pont Louis Philippe and collapse into bed before getting up the next day and doing most of it all over again.

And this road well traveled is how every few years we get to “be one traveler” who lives in Paris, too.

Berlin

Springtime in Berlin

We’ve all been pretending it already happened, but spring in Berlin didn’t officially spring until today. It was warm, almost muggy, and all of Berlin was out to enjoy it. Lines spilled out of ice cream shops onto the sidewalks (I love how Berliners love ice cream) and humans dotted the soft slope of Volkspark am Weinbergsweg near our apartment, reminding me of sheep on a Cotswold hill.

Volkspark am Weinbergsweg, Berlin

I started my day in the café at the bottom of Soho House with a cold-pressed beetroot, carrot, orange, apple, lemon, ginger, pineapple juice (I jest not, have a look at the bottle in the picture below). It was delicious if slightly disturbing to be eating breakfast that was indistinguishable both in content and setting from any restaurant on Abbot Kinney in Venice, California. I guess it’s official: hipsters have homogenized the world and they did it with avocado toast.

Breakfast at ‘The Kitchen’ in ‘The Store’ at Soho House Berlin

Next I did some shopping. That the warm weather went to my head is the only explanation I have for how I ended up with both these pairs of flip flops. Bimba y Lola, where I picked them up, is my new favorite store. Apparently it’s Spanish and there are a few of them in London, but it was new to me.

On my way home I spied these birdhouses in the park and was charmed by the fact that even the birdhouses in Berlin have graffiti. I noticed the inscription “Morgenvogel-Haus 157” on one of them and did a little Internet sleuthing. From what I could tell with the help of Google Translate, the birdhouses are part of a long-running artist’s project to ensure birds retain habitats in Berlin despite the relentless development since reunification. There’s a cool animation of all the birdhouses that were installed as part of the project here. Very sweet. Very Berlin.

Morgenvogel “Real Estate for Birds”
Books Cotswolds Walking

10 Things on My Cotswold Bucket List

Next week we are headed to Berlin again. We prefer to think of it as an extended sojourn rather than a move, as well as a bit of practice for our aspiration of being bi-continental. Only eventually we want the two destinations to be California and Cotswoldia.In the meantime, Berlin will absolutely do. My reluctance to leave California has way more to do with how much I love living here than any negative commentary on the German capital. But one has to make hay while the sun shines, and right now the hay is in Berlin. Plus, it’s pretty hard, not to mention ungrateful, to complain about getting a chance to live abroad again and be paid for it. Or so I tell myself while I gaze mesmerized at sunset over the Pacific.

And while Berlin has lots of things going for it (trendy, artsy, foodie—you’ve read the glossy travel mags), I have to admit what I’m most looking forward to is that we’ll be able to visit the Cotswolds much more frequently. It got me thinking about all the things I still want to do there, a bucket list of sorts:

1. Hike the Cotswold Way, over 100 miles of walking between Chipping Campden and Bath, (crucially) punctuated with overnight pub stays.

2. Take a stay-cation at Log House Holidays. Because log cabins in England on a beach (OK, a lake beach).

3. Eat at The Wild Rabbit, because it opened after we left and on return visits we were too busy revisiting old favorites to try it. Also, because I’m a sucker for Daylesford Organic (one of those old favorites), which, like The Wild Rabbit, is owned by Lady Bamford.

4. Read Laurie Lee’s Cider with Rosie (shhhh, don’t tell anyone I’ve never finished it) then go have a pint at his local, The Woolpack, in Slad.

5. While I’m reading, I’ll also tackle Autobiography of a Supertrampby Welshman W.H. Davies, who spent time in America and finished his life in the Cotswold town of Nailsworth.

6. Go to the farmers market in Stroud everyone talks about. I’m hoping it will ease me down from missing the amazing Sunday Farmer’s Market in Ojai, California.

7. Hit all those annual quirky Cotswold events I meant to go to but somehow, Tetbury Woolsack Racing aside, never managed: clypping in Painswick, cheese rolling on Cooper’s Hill, rubber duck races in Bibury, river football in Bourton-on-the-Water, and the Olimpicks in Chipping Campden.

8. Continue to refuse to attend The Big Feastival because Alex James’ adoption of a Cotswold farmer persona does my head in.

9. Go on a pheasant shoot, not because I want to kill any birds but simply because I want to wear a fetching ensemble of plus-fours and a velvet waistcoat.

10. Drink wine at the big table made out of a door on the back patio at The Ox House. OK, I’ve done this approximately 1,000 times before, but it never gets old.

11. I know this post is called “10 Things…” but I keep thinking of things to add after I originally posted it, including watching surfing on the Severn Bore. It may be a little different than watching the surfers off C-Street in my California hometown, but it looks pretty awesome.

12. Update—more tips from @PollyPissyPants, none of which I’ve done before: Bisley Well ceremony, Buscot Park, Lacock Abbey & village, tea at The Old Bell and the Abbey in Malmesbury, and dinner at the Bell at Sapperton.

Sometimes I wonder what I did for those three years I actually lived full-time in the Cotswolds, but, as documented on this blog, it was lots. Just goes to prove what I already knew was true: There’s always more to discover in Cotswoldia.

Random

Big Pharma Wants to Date Me

It’s ski season, at least that’s my excuse for going off-piste with the content of today’s post to share an essay of mine on a topic about as far away from the Cotswolds as you can get: adventures in the American healthcare system. The piece is called “Big Pharma Wants to Date Me, and Other Quirks of Being Sick in America,” and it chronicles my experience being of being doggedly wooed by a pharmaceutical company after being diagnosed with a chronic illness. I tried to be serious and funny and personal at the same time, and I hope you’ll check it out. It was published on The Rumpus here earlier this week.

Christmas Letters

Christmas Letter 2014

I am writing this Christmas letter late and with some amount of ambivalence (much as I imagine you might be reading it), mostly because at this point in the year everything that could have been deemed vaguely interesting about my life has already been plastered on social media, leaving little point to this endeavor except, well, it’s tradition. And, after all, it’s the time of year for traditions, not to mention the fact that I’m holed up in the resident’s lounge of a pub in the Lake District where it’s pouring outside and the bridge to Ambleside has likely been washed out for the night, which means we can’t go see the film we thought we might and so I may as well as try to entertain myself, and hopefully you, with an attempt at the traditional Christmas letter.

The best pub in Britain, mostly because they still sell Scampi Fries

The year was marked by Big Family Occasions, namely my parents’ 50th wedding anniversary, which we celebrated in Coronado, and my sister’s wedding and adoption of her daughter on the same day in March. D. and I have taken to the roles of aunt and uncle like ducks to water, not least because my niece is, in a word, marvelous. We’ve had several visits with her over the course of the year, most recently when we hosted Thanksgiving at our house and she proved the Pacific Ocean in November is nothing to fear.

My sister and her daughter masquerading as 2 specks in twilight near Ventura Pier

Over the summer we moved (again). We sold our house in Santa Monica and moved up the coast to Ventura, news that seems to universally leave people, to put it charitably, confused. I’m not sure if this is because Santa Monica has achieved some kind of mythical status in the popular psyche leaving people to wonder why we would ever leave such an Eden, or if Ventura has achieved such dubious status as to leave people wondering why we would go there. If it’s the former, I might suggest that you haven’t been to Santa Monica lately and therefore wouldn’t know that Eden is no longer navigable by car (and only by bike at high risk to your life). Or perhaps you currently live there and are therefore invested in maintaining the Eden perception (with all due respect, I only suggest this possibility because I lived it). With regard to the latter, it’s possible you’ve heard the epithet of Ventucky in reference to my new home, which I suspect has been devised by local residents to deter an influx of outsiders. Mostly, though, Angelenos don’t seem to know much about Ventura—including me until I considered moving there—having only driven by it on the 101 on the way to somewhere else like Santa Barbara. If you, too, fall into this category, consider that you now have a reason to stop.

Our own epiphany came after having spent most weekends of 2013 and early 2014 in Ojai—an amazing small town that, judging by the travel press, seems to be having its own moment in the Zeitgeist—and deciding that this might be an indicator we should move there. After assorted real estate fits and starts, and ultimately deterred by the prospect of 100+ degree weather in Ojai in the summer, we were wooed the 13 miles down the mountain to Ventura by a view of the Channel Islands and a sleepy-beach-city-vibe that feels a lot like Santa Monica about 20 years ago when *gasp* I first moved to Los Angeles.

Serra Cross Park, named for Father Juniper Serra, founder of the San Buenaventura Mission

In the six months we’ve been in Ventura there have been lots of exciting discoveries for us newcomers, not least of which is the city’s burgeoning art scene. My surprise at this fact revealed my possession of the worst kind of urbanite snobbery, the disbelief that anything of cultural significance could exist outside my insular city world. It was a lesson I had learned once before moving from London to the Cotswolds, and yet I fell prey again to the thinking that art was the provenance of certain zip codes. Also, did I mention the Mexican food? There is a street in Ventura called The Avenue where you will find chile verde as spiritual experience. I have made it my mission to consume the establishments of The Avenue in whole, like a burrito, over the coming months.

Another revelation of the move has been access to central California, namely the parts of Santa Barbara and San Luis Obispo counties that were just a little too far out of reach for a weekend away when we lived in Los Angeles. Our favorite discovery has been the wine/wild west town of Los Alamos, which gave D. license to buy (and wear) a cowboy hat while riding an actual horse around the vineyards. His love affair with California has been reignited.

The whole family saddles up for a ride on the range

In 2014, I spent far too little time writing in favor of the work-that-pays-you-money-kind-of-work. I did manage a few things, including my first-ever print magazine feature for our local edition of Edible and an essay about healthcare in America which will appear in The Rumpus in the coming weeks. I am particularly proud of the latter, which is called Big Pharma Is Trying to Date Me and Other Quirks of Being Sick in America, both because the subject matter is important and an outlet I respect *self-consciously guffaws that Cheryl Strayed and Roxane Gay and Steve Almond have written or currently write for it!* is going to publish it. I will, of course, post on social media when it’s up and hope you’ll stop by and read it.

Until then, wishing you and yours the very merriest of Christmases and a Happy New Year!

Cotswolds

Gardener’s Delight

Last night we celebrated husband’s 49-for-the-second-time birthday in style and checked into Barnsley House, a country house in a nearby village that has been converted into a hotel. We’ve been longtime patrons of Barnsley House’s bar and cinema, but this was the first time we’ve spent the night. It’s a special place, especially so if you’re a gardener. It used to be the home of the famous English garden designer, Rosemary Verey, and the property still maintains her handiwork, as well as vegetable and kitchen gardens. Despite the fact that I have a black thumb, I still find it magical. Here are the pictures to prove it. Hope you enjoy as much as we did.




Christmas decorations in the lounge
Romantic freestanding double tubs in our room, pre-supplied
with a distinctly British idea of erotic literature
Spot the birthday boy
More Christmas decorations in
the hotel’s Potager Restaurant
Breakfast with local eggs and vegetables from the garden
Garden folly
Guardian of the garden
This is a potager. I don’t know what a potager is but I want one.
Something to come back for in another season
Cotswolds

Cotswold Fix

I was lucky enough to get a Cotswold fix earlier this month by cramming a weekend visit into a work trip to Europe. It was surprisingly green and mild still, hardly a hint of autumn at all. My timing coincided with the last weekend of the wonderful Cheltenham Literature Festival, and I got to see a panel of the Man Booker Prize shortlistees, including Americans (first time they’ve been allowed on the list) Joshua Ferris and Karen Joy Fowler. As far as highlights go, though, it’s hard to compete with the scenery and a proper roast dinner. This ought to just about tie me over til Christmas!

View from the hamlet of Hampnett
St. George’s, Hampnett
Another Hampnett view
The old college on our lovely lane
Proper roast dinner courtesy of Rupert & Ralph
California

The Cotswolds of California: Lost in Los Alamos

Assuming you’re in the right state—California, not Nevada—finding Los Alamos is easy. It’s about 50 miles north of Santa Barbara, just off the 101 freeway. You exit onto the main drag of this town of 1,890 people, which means it’s nearly impossible to get lost once you’re there, too. But step inside the establishments of Los Alamos and you might very well start to feel disoriented. From the old west vibe of the 1880 Union Hotel to the wouldn’t-be-out-of-place-in-Manhattan interior of Bob’s Well Bread bakery and coffee shop, Los Alamos is full of surprises.

A vintage car rally during Los Alamos’ annual birthday celebration, Old Days

The first of these was when, shortly after checking in to the 1880 Union Hotel, we stopped into Babi’s Beer Emporium and Emilio Estevez pulled us a pint. We had read that his partner, Sonja Magdevski, owned the establishment and the adjoining Casa Dumetz wine tasting room, but we didn’t expect to see Estevez at work behind the pumps. While we both tried to feign a polite level of indifference, D. couldn’t pass up the opportunity to tell him how much he liked Repo Man. I was far too starstruck to chip in anything about The Breakfast Club or how, more recently, I had blubbered through a flight while watching his 2011 film, The Way. Of course the real stars of Babi’s are the beers; I sipped a Pilsner from Hangar 24 Craft Brewery out of Redlands, California while D. hit a 10+% triple IPA, which explains why he can’t remember the name of it.

The bar at Babi’s Beer Emporium

But more than beer, this town is about wine. In addition to Casa Dumetz, Bell Street hosts a tasting room for Bedford Winery and, in a tiny building at the front of the Alamo Motel, a recently opened outlet for Municipal Winemakers. The latter’s Rhone-style Bright Red and Bright White dry Riesling were standouts from our tasting. Hollywood makes another appearance—this time inside the glass—at the Wine Saloon, which features Kurt Russell’s Gogi Wines and a stellar rosé from Kate Hudson and Matt Bellamy’s (of Muse) label. Tres Hermanas, who have a tasting room 10 miles away in Los Olivos, have taken over the bar at the newly renovated The Station. Over a glass of their crisp white Grenache, one of the owners told us about their plans to open the restaurant by late November. In the meantime, they were offering burritos to their hungry bar patrons.

Cafe Quackenbush and Art Gallery

We passed on the burritos in favor of pizza at the vibrant Full of Life Flatbread. The pie was good, but it was upstaged by a dessert of a sheep’s milk cheesecake with plum sorbet. At lunchtime, dining options in Los Alamos expand to include Bell Street Farm, Café Quackenbush, and Bob’s Well Bread. And for a taste of Los Alamos before Hollywood showed up, try Charlie’s, which has the advantage of being open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner every day. Many of the restaurants and bars I’ve mentioned so far still only open on weekends to cater for tourist traffic.

To keep you occupied between eating and drinking, there are a handful of antique and vintage shops to dip in and out of on Bell Street. The Gentleman Farmer and The Depot Mall, on the site of the old Pacific Coast Railway depot, were two of my favorites.

My only advice is this: visit Los Alamos now. The mere existence of the shops, bars, and eateries I’ve mentioned proves that Los Alamos has already been discovered, but it still doesn’t feel overrun. Today Los Alamos is Solvang before Sideways. Given the Hollywood presence we encountered, it won’t be the case for long.

See more pictures of Los Alamos on Pinterest here.

The Details

Where to Stay:

1880 Union Hotel
362 Bell St.
Los Alamos, CA 93440
(805) 344-2744

March 2015 Update: On subsequent visits we enjoyed staying at both the Victorian Mansion Bed & Breakfast and the Alamo Motel. The former has over-the-top themed rooms; we stayed in the 1950s suite complete with a Cadillac bed “parked” at your own personal drive-in showing your choice of Grease or American Graffiti. At the latter, ask for one of the refurbished rooms.

Sleeping arrangements in the 1950s suite at the Victorian Mansion

The Victorian Mansion Bed & Breakfast
326 Bell St.
Los Alamos, CA 93440
(805) 344-1300

The Alamo Motel
425 Bell St.
Los Alamos, CA 93440
(805) 344-2852

Where to Eat:

Cafe Quackenbush
458 Bell St.
Los Alamos, CA 93440
(805) 344-5181

Full of Life Flatbread
225 Bell St.
Los Alamos, CA 93440
(805) 344-4400

Bell Street Farm
406 Bell St.
Los Alamos, CA 93440
(805) 344-4609

Bob’s Well Bread
550 Bell St.
Los Alamos, CA 93440
(805) 344-3000

Where to Drink:

Casa Dumetz / Babi’s Beer Emporium
448 Bell St.
Los Alamos, CA 93440
(805) 344-1911

Wine Saloon
362 Bell St.
Los Alamos, CA 93440
(805) 344-2744

The Station
346 Bell St.
Los Alamos, CA 93440
(805) 344-1950

This post is part of a series on the search for the Cotswolds of California, i.e., an idyllic weekend escape within easy reach of Los Angeles. Earlier I profiled the Ojai Valley here and the Santa Ynez Valley here.

Cotswolds

Loos of the Cotswolds: A Wee Dunnit

A few weeks ago we lent our Cotswold cottage to friends and family, which explains why our plumbing thought it would be a perfect time to go on the fritz. An emergency plumber was summoned on a Sunday, but the required parts weren’t available until Monday. Our guests were exceedingly good humored about the 24-hour toilet outage and took it upon themselves to document this guide to public loos of the Cotswolds. (Normally I would take full responsibility for a bad pun, but Wee Dunnit is so gloriously bad—by which, of course, I mean good—that I have to give credit to our guest, Julie Henderson, for it.)

WEE DUNNIT IN:

A PUB TOILET at THE HOLLOW BOTTOM, GUITING POWER, with a copy of The Racing Post

A BOOKIES’ TOILET at FRED DONES, CHELTENHAM, after placing a winning bet

A DISABLED TOILET at CHELTENHAM HOSPITAL, with The Daily Mirror and an umbrella

A BAR TOILET at JOHN GORDONS, CHELTENHAM, before a bottle of Picpoul and a Pieminister pie

A PUB TOILET at THE DUKE OF WELLINGTON, BOURTON-ON-THE-WATER, never to be repeated

A SHOP TOILET at FOOD FANATICS, WINCHCOMBE, before a damson and sloe gin ice cream

THE PUBLIC TOILETS in THE MARKET PLACE, NORTHLEACH, with a smile for the BBC film crew who were there shooting J.K. Rowling’s A Casual Vacancy

A BAR TOILET at COPA, CHELTENHAM, after taking advantage of the sales in Jigsaw and Monsoon

A PUB TOILET at YATES’S, CHELTENHAM, at the top of a never-ending stairway

A PUB TOILET at THE WHEATSHEAF INN, NORTHLEACH, before a cheese soufflé and some hake

A BAR TOILET at THE OX HOUSE, NORTHLEACH, after mistakenly walking into the office

THE GARDEN at DROVERS COTTAGE, NORTHLEACH, (discreetly) with a stifled laugh

Cotswolds

Our Cotswold Town Transformed for the Filming of JK Rowling’s The Casual Vacancy

Last week the market square of our Cotswold town was transformed into the fictional town of Pagford for the filming of a television version of J.K. Rowling’s The Casual Vacancy. We weren’t there, but friends and family were staying in our cottage and took some pictures. Thanks to Julie Henderson for all the images in this post.

The plot of The Casual Vacancy centers on the death of a beloved parish councillor and the resulting election that occurs. The set included a notice board for the Pagford Parish Council (above) complete with fictional notices for a village fête, a wine tasting evening, and a scintillating-sounding illustrated talk on “A Passion for Piers.” I can only assume by the authenticity of the notices that the production staff took inspiration from our real notice board.

The local beauty salon became a sweet shop, the Black Cat café morphed into a posh deli, and the chippie turned into Evertree Antiques (no reflection on the age of the chips usually served there).

Actor Michael Gambon was spotted around the square sporting a pair of blue pajamas and velvet slippers. A more common sight around the square, the bike that’s usually parked outside the wine bar, was given a facelift and used as a prop for Michael Gambon’s character’s shop.

I look forward to seeing the full effects of the transformation when the series airs later this year on both BBC One and HBO. And while I hope the show is a big hit, I hope it’s not big enough that it turns our town into something other than the best kept secret in the Cotswolds that it is.