The acid yellow of oil of rapeseed has long ago given way to chunky sage green foliage, threaded through with papery orange-red poppies. Deep green seas of wheat have faded to sage green too. Some are already in the throes of becoming the wheat we know, germs bleached and wispy and standing on end like a blond shot through with static electricity. Fuchsia thistles spike the hedgerows and plumes of cow parsley persist, party favors of spring.