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Rules, Rules, Rules

One of the pleasures of reading is coming across a passage where the author elucidates something—a thought or feeling or situation—in such a way that you understand yourself better. This is how I felt when I read the following in Christopher Isherwood’s Berlin Stories (my one and only attempt to read thematically relevant literature while living in that city):

…Otto is naturally and healthily selfish, like an animal. If there are two chairs in a room, he will take the more comfortable one without hesitation, because it never even occurs to him to consider Peter’s comfort. Peter’s selfishness is much less honest, more civilised, more perverse.  Appealed to in the right way, he will make any sacrifice, however unreasonable and unnecessary…

Isherwood may as well have been describing husband when describing Otto. He habitually takes the seat with the view, and preferably within earshot, of the other patrons at any restaurant. I am the less honest Peter, pretending to be irritated by the implication that my company alone is insufficient to entertain him for the duration of a meal, but really annoyed by not having the view myself. And on the basis of this feigned virtue, I nobly concede the seat every time. What is most troubling about recognizing my marital dynamic in this passage is hard to say: that Otto and Peter inevitably split or that Isherwood is describing the relationship between two gay men.

I was reminded of this passage on the flight from London to Boston on Monday. Lunch had been served and eaten but not cleared when husband decided he wanted to use the bathroom. He stacked my tray on his and, balancing both as he climbed over me, very nearly dumped a quarter of a plastic bottle of Albariño and the dregs of a pot of chocolate mousse that tasted suspiciously of suntan oil into the lap of the woman in the adjacent row. I sighed and chastised him for not being able to wait like a grown up for the flight attendants to clear the trays, but he didn’t listen. He returned our trays to the galley and relieved himself long before the rest of the punters, dutifully awaiting tray clearage, formed an orderly and lengthy queue in the traditional post-in flight meal rush for the loos.

Husband’s action were selfish, but what bothered me most was his refusal to follow the generally accepted norms of airline etiquette. Surely if all passengers decided to return their trays and trash at their own convenience the flight attendants would revolt, turning on the fasten seat belt sign and demanding everyone wait until they were ready to make their way up and down the aisles with the trash trolley and tepid coffee nobody really wants but takes anyway because they are bored.

You see I am a rule follower. I see the dentist every six months, save for retirement, and generally wait my turn. This is a character trait that has not gone unnoticed amongst friends, one of whom christened me “rules, rules, rules” after a visit to the theater when I nearly had a conniption fit because he was still out bidding on eBay in the lobby when the three-minute bell rang for the curtain. Husband on the other hand abides by no such rules other than, generally, his own comfort. Where he does appear to follow rules, they are a Byzantine code of conduct decipherable to no one but himself. For example, he will casually leave garbage in a roadside motor stop parking lot claiming “there are people employed to pick that up,” as if he is doing his part for the nation’s unemployment rate, but would chase someone down if he saw them drop litter from their car in the pristine Cotswold countryside.

I am unlikely to ever penetrate the world of husband’s rules. Perhaps the best I can do is learn from them.  Next time you are annoyed by the woman sitting next to you on the plane who practically dumps her tray into your lap so she can use the loo, it may just be me.

Cotswolds Random

Aspect Ratio

Last night we partook in one of our cherished Cotswold rituals for the last time (for now), a film in the private cinema at Barnsley House. We narrowed our selection down to two respectable classics, the original Italian Job or A Streetcar Named Desire. Only when the concierge could find neither did husband suggest we indulge in a reprisal of Notting Hill. Two glasses of wine and Hugh Grant at his floppiest were promptly sourced, and a few minutes later we had taken our places on the cinema’s candy pink loveseats.

Of course this ritual would be incomplete without husband deciding about five minutes into the film that there was something sub-optimal about the quality of our viewing experience. It didn’t matter we were watching a nineties romcom instead of some Blu-ray sci-fi extravaganza; husband has his standards.  Hugh Grant had hardly made his way to work in his travel bookstore before husband was shoving past me to go into the projector room.  A minute later he had managed to totally disable the picture and we were listening to Hugh’s amiable patter to the accompaniment of a black screen. Husband declared there was obviously something wrong with the projector and brought the lights up.  I stayed seated, closed my eyes and sighed a silent sigh before offering to call down to reception to see if they could help.  More flapping ensued, and before long Hugh and Julia were back, this time at the proper aspect ratio as husband took pleasure in pointing out to me.

You see husband has a full-blown obsession with aspect ratios. We are not allowed to watch anything on television or at the cinema, never mind if it is our television or cinema, without husband tinkering with the aspect ratio to ensure the image is being projected as the creator intended: strictly no stretched faces, cut off pictures, or fuzzy edges allowed.  At worst this is a symptom of control freakdom; at best a sincere respect for the crafts of television and film. Most the time I can’t tell the difference, or, if I can, don’t care. A slightly distorted Hugh and Julia are good enough for me.

This is, of course, emblematic of how we both approach life. Husband is fussy and precise and under the illusion that the more he frets the more he can control.  I am, well, a little sloppy and prone to let things happen to me rather than trying to ‘make things happen.’ (In my defense, the things that happen to me have worked out pretty ok so far.)  Of course the truth is there are times and places more suited to one approach over the other, those times when the aspect ratio in life really does matter.  And credit where credit is due: husband is the one who pushed me to force the issue of moving back to the U.S. when I was offered a new job within my current company, and it worked.  I’m not so sure husband has yet taken any laissez-faire cues from me, but at least I can leave England knowing I’ve seen Notting Hill as it was meant to be.

Random

The Art of the Anti-Vacation

I am just back after a week’s vacation in the Cotswolds. If it seems to you like I am always on vacation, well, it seems that way to me too. I am now living in the most generous of European countries when it comes to vacation days and get a whopping thirty per year. (Note to US companies: neither your company nor the economy will collapse if you let people off for more than ten days every year.) It’s a good thing too because most my vacations in recent memory have been anything but relaxing.

Last week’s started with a funeral. Admittedly it was a funeral that was followed by a rather expectional party of a wake, but still a funeral. And up until the minute we walked through the doors of the church in Bibury, husband was furiously tapping away at his BlackBerry in negotiations over two potential job offers, tense negotiations that would stretch well into the week.

There was a lot at stake. After three months in Berlin husband had exhausted his interest in the Betty Draper life of leisure or, as he had taken to describing it, being a work-shy fop. (Mastering the art of frittata making had been gratifying at first, but failed to sustain him.) He decided he would have to get a job and spent the month of May in the Cotswolds doing interviews in the UK while simultaneously turning up the heat on a potential job in Berlin that had been hanging around without a formal offer for far too long. Neither of us was particularly thrilled about the idea of commuting back and forth between Berlin and the Cotwolds each weekend to be together, and the propsect hung over us like a dark cloud all week.

We have a habit of timing career crises to coincide with our vacations. A few years ago we spent a weekend in Venice intended to celebrate our wedding anniversary but instead spent it agonizing over whether or not husband should change jobs, agony tempered somewhat by prosecco and cicchetti consumption. A year or so later there was angst in Breisach am Rhein over the decision to take that job, then more of the same last Christmas in L.A. over the decision to move to Berlin for my job. At the end of this vacation, though, there was good news. The Berlin job offer came through and husband started today. Next month we go to Paris to celebrate our tenth wedding anniversary. Let’s hope it’s angst and crisis-free.

Random

Letter to Tina Fey

Dear Tina,
Were SNL, 30 Rock, more awards than your mantelpiece can hold, and a Vanity Fair cover not enough for you? Did you really have to go and write a memoir (and publish excerpts not once but twice in The New Yorker) just to prove you can write in the book-kind-of-way too? And that women can be respectable celebrities? Don’t you know celebrity women are only allowed to be crazy, born into it, or/(preferably) and sluts? We normal women need these excuses to write you people off and feel less bad about our own mundane lives.

But damn you Tina Fey, now you’ve gone and proven that pretty-smart-but-not-Ivy-League-smart women, women who have actually shopped in Ann Taylor and Contempo Casuals, can be egregiously successful. (Who am I kidding? Everyone knows getting into UVA out of state is as hard as getting into an Ivy League.) So what I didn’t pass your clever little test for being cultural elite. At least I know who David Foster Wallace is, which surely makes me at least a cultural snob.

And worst of all you are more or less (well a little more than) my age. I hate it when people I admire are my age. I like it much better when they’re a lot older or a lot younger and then when I compare myself to them I can blame my underachievement on that. At least I beat you on one count. It took you until forty to have to take your pants off when you came home after work. I am only thirty-nine and I have already been doing that for years. Take that, Tina Fey.

PS – Yes I know this post is about Tina Fey, not the Cotswolds, and not Berlin. What can I say? It’s my blog.

PPS – To Brit readers, Tina really means trousers when she talks about pants, as in neither of us are talking about a compulsion to take off our underpants when we come home from work.

Random

Free ‘n Easy

One of the unexpected consequences of moving to Berlin is the amount of time I spend inside the cabins of Easy Jet planes. Since the move in February, I estimate my Sleazy Jet flying time has breached the twenty-hour mark, plus the same again queued up waiting like sheep in a pen for the free-for-all boarding call. That’s two whole days of my life I will never get back, like ITIL training or that afternoon I once spent in Swindon.

It wasn’t supposed to be like this. Among the long and varied list of bargaining points on the deal I made with husband to get him to move to Berlin, one was that we would return to the Cotswolds for a weekend every month. To break him in, I agreed to once every two weeks to start. And just when I thought I had weaned him down to a compromise agreement of once every three weeks, I somehow find him spending the entire month of May there – admittedly the nicest month of the year to be in the Cotswolds—while I fly back every weekend to see him.

As such, I have become something of an expert Easy Jet flyer. I have learned, for example, to head straight for the stairs at the back of the plane after several catfights with parents and other entitled types over trying to get the bulkhead seat. I didn’t mind the catfight part (kind of like it, actually), I just realized that you can exit as fast from the last row as the first, while avoiding the discomfort of the front row where you face the Easy Jet flight attendants head on and feel obligated to engage in small talk. And I do feel obligated because I can’t help feeling sorry for them. They never seem to get to spend the night anywhere they fly—surely the main perq of being a flight attendant—but rather just do a couple of out-and-back short hauls each day. I am pretty convinced they get commission for the tat they peddle on the plane (scratch cards for gods sake!), which makes the job more or less the equivalent of working in a 7-Eleven in the sky.

My father was an airline pilot so as a kid, standby gods willing, I got to fly Pan Am first class, complete with cloth napkins, mini salt and pepper shakers, and multi-course meals. Things are different now. Next time you fly Easy Jet from Berlin to Bristol, turn around and see who’s sitting in the back row. If it’s a woman eating Mini Cheddars and drinking a mini plastic bottle of South African rosé on the rocks, chances are that’s me.

Random

Adventures in Showering

In our first week in Berlin we have discovered many of the wonders of the city. There is the impaled UFO of a television tower in Alexanderplatz, the classical buildings of the museum quarter, the majestic Brandenburg Gate, the glass dome of the Bundestag, and the Central Park-like expanse of the Tiergarten, not to mention the basement food hall of the Galeries Lafayette (a surprise find by husband). But the thing I’ve been most fascinated by is much more local, inside our apartment as a matter of fact: our shower.

Like the television tower, our shower manages to look retro and futuristic at the same time. It could easily pass for a prop on Star Trek, especially when the miniature recessed ceiling lights are on (also convenient for use as a bathroom night light). Inside there are three knobs that seem to control from which direction the water shoots at you. My favorite is a combination of the removable shower head and ankle-height jets. Husband prefers the overhead experience, which is a bit too waterboardy for me. There are also two digital control panels with fourteen buttons each, most of which I am too scared to press despite the illustrations attempting to communicate what each is for. My favorite shows an adult stick figure standing next to a child. Bathing with your child is undoubtedly very continental, but the American prude in me refers to this as the pedophile setting. While we’re on disturbing subjects I’ll mention the coiled up length of blue rubber hose.  The accompanying illustrated warning looks like Loony Tunes’ language for speed: horizontal lines with a poof at the end that appear as the Roadrunner leaves Wile E. Coyote in the dust.

Husband did figure out what to press to make the jets undulate up and down your body in succession — an unsettling but not unpleasant experience — but so far neither of us have figured out how to work the high tap that pours into a shallow u-shaped shelf. There’s a bench underneath where apparently you sit until the shelf is filled and then tips over your head. Never mind exploring Berlin, there’s something to look forward to without leaving the house.

Random

Shanghai Blues

Welcome to ShangHai
Evaded affection
Pieces of pieces of the Heart
Thank you
Very Much

And so read the bag in which the hand-tailored clothes smelling of Chinese food and cigarettes was delivered to me on the last night of my visit to Shanghai. It’s a cheap shot to poke fun at translations, but I really like this one. It’s poetic, an off-kilter haiku.

My week in Shanghai started with a shopping trip on which I ordered the above mentioned clothes (which, smell aside, turned out beautifully). Shortly after touching down at Pudong airport, our personal shopper, Francine of East of the Sun, collected us from the hotel and took us on a whirlwind tour of cloth markets, pearl vendors, silk-binders, and cashmere boutiques in the French concession, with a welcome stop for a street snack of savory, glutinous rice-filled dumplings. The rest of the week was work-dominated, but there were other highlights like the Chinese banquet on our second night. After about ten dishes of varying degrees of identifiability (including tofu, something that looked like a stingray and was delicious, and meat of some kind with red chilies), the pièce de résistance arrived: hairy crab. I am a fairly adventurous eater, but on the advice of the more adventurous woman sitting next to me, I simply admired rather than indulged in the seasonal delicacy. I did, however, enjoy the red bean curd-filled dessert dumpling that looked and felt exactly like a silicon breast for a doll, right down to the crowning red dot. My final highlight of the trip was discovering a Coffee Bean and Tea Leaf in the ground floor of the office building of Thomson-Reuters, where we went for a presentation. They don’t even have those in London. And yes, I can confirm that a Coffee Bean latte tastes exactly the same in Shanghai as it does on Main Street in Santa Monica.

Random

Forget Me

Friday afternoon our office manager walked onto my floor carrying a huge, hand-tied bouquet of flowers. It was the birthday of the woman who sits outside my office and we both thought the flowers were for her. It was neither my birthday nor my anniversary and so I was as surprised as she was to learn they were for me. I double checked the card to ensure there was no mistake. My name was on the outside, and inside the inscription started with “poopie doopie,” a clear indicator they were from husband. The card went on to read “thank you for being so understanding.”

The flowers were my reward for a week of enduring husband’s latest fit of hypochondria, which in recent years has doted on various and assorted ailments including, memorably, colon cancer and AIDS. This time around husband had convinced himself he had diabetes. The speculation was less unreasonable than previous occasions given he had been asked to take a second blood test after a first one came back with high glucose levels. This coupled with the fact that his father had adult onset diabetes had convinced husband a diagnosis was inevitable, and he spent the week mining the Internet for other evidence to satisfy this conclusion. When the second test came back normal on Thursday afternoon, there was great relief. I was pleased husband didn’t have diabetes, but just as happy not to have to endure the nightly sessions reviewing his latest findings on WebMD.

The only other time husband sent me flowers at the office was in the very early days of our dating career. He had cancelled a rollerblading date at short notice and sent a bouquet by way of apology the following Monday. The card carried the message “Forget me.” The secretary and I had a good laugh at the melodrama of this instruction and then I did as I was told. Several days later husband called me, expressing exasperation that I had not yet telephoned him to thank him for the flowers. I explained I was just doing as he had asked and recounted the message. It turns out the clerk had transcribed the card incorrectly, and the greeting was supposed to have read “Forgive me.” The rest, as they say, is history.

Random

We Tell Ourselves Stories

Last night in the bathtub I read an article by Oliver Sacks about a man with lesions on his brain who developed alexia, the inability to recognize written language. It got me thinking about my very own lesions, and in turn MS, and in turn a man I met on the second night of the London to Paris charity bike ride. He and his friend joined husband and me over dinner at the hotel. He was wearing an orange T-shirt sporting the cheery star-spangled logo of the the MS Society, the charity I was also supporting, and when we got to talking I quickly learned that he suffers from MS. We exchanged disease synopses, much like you might exchange your reflections on a recent trip to Tuscany if you met someone and found out he or she had also just been there, had stayed in the very same villa as you as a matter of fact. (In this part of Tuscany there are wheelchairs and neurologists.)

I asked him about the time between the recurrence of his symptoms, a key factor in the diagnosis of MS. Once he gave me the answer I wanted – that his symptoms were so close together his doctor couldn’t tell them apart—I didn’t want to hear anymore. I had heard what I needed, which was that his experience with symptom recurrence was different than mine and, by extension, this meant I wasn’t going to develop MS. But he wanted, even needed, to tell me more. It was like he was performing a duty of care in dispensing his expertise on the disease to me, the potential new recruit. And so he told me more. More about the best doctors in the U.S., where he lived when he was diagnosed, and London. More about the need for a holistic approach to treatment. More about what an asshole banker he had been before he got the diagnosis, and how MS had made him a better husband and father.

I understand better than anyone that disease compels you to craft a narrative to rationalize it, and becoming a better man was the main arc of his story. And yet it was a story that made me uneasy the more I sat and listened, picking over my beef stew and pomme frites. It should have made me feel better. It was not my story after all. I was not, as far as I knew, an asshole, and was definitely not a banker or parent. And yet these facts establishing our separateness brought me none of the lazy comfort I’d allowed myself earlier when I differentiated this man’s fate from my own based on the rate of his symptom recurrence.

That night I wrote on my blog that I found the man with MS narcissistic and unlikeable, which of course in retrospect was unfair. Husband had surprised me that night by questioning my assessment of the man’s behavior since we usually agree on this sort of thing. He suggested my reaction was more about my discomfort with confronting MS than the man’s arrogance. And pain me as it might to say it, husband was right.

Random

Edna & the Steakhouse

Today the Cotswolds starts its transformation into little Ireland with the first race in the Cheltenham festival, the week long horse racing event that brings in punters and trainers alike from across the Irish sea. The wine bar, as usual, will show the races on TV and provide an in-house bookie so the locals don’t have to brave the racecourse crowds thirteen miles down the road. But this year I will have to phone in my bet on Denman as I have traded in my bar stool for a seat on a flight to JFK. (Thing I love about my Cotswold town #389: being able to phone in a bet to my local wine bar.) In New York I can expect to find a week of confinement in the stale walls of a Time Square hotel conference room, to be followed by two consecutive evenings of steakhouse dinners where the most St Patrick’s Day merriment I can hope for is some green lager to wash down my boiled corn beef and cabbage special.

I find the fact that my company is choosing to hold this meeting in NYC and forcing me to attend work dinners in locations chosen by a secretary catering for the tastes of my predominantly forty-something male colleagues downright cruel (to think of all that New Yorker “Table for Two” reading gone to waste). I don’t mind so much when these meetings are held in the Boston suburbs where my expectations for free time are set no higher than an outing to the mall in the Hyundai rental car followed by a turkey melt from Marriott room service. But New York? I have old friends to catch up with, Tim Burton exhibits to line up for, and all of Central Park willing me to get lost in it jogging as is my tradition each time I visit.

Thankfully I have managed to eke out one opportunity for frivolity in the Big Apple, which presents itself tonite not long after I land. An old friend from Los Angeles (who once visited us in the Cotsies, as he calls it) who now lives in New York has, trading on his newfound local television celebritydom I like to think, scored tickets to a preview of Dame Edna’s new Broadway show. I am hopeful that this will be followed by a late dinner and drinks anywhere that’s not a steakhouse.