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Cotswolds

Cotswolds

A Collector Is Born

The Cotswold palette is still predominantly green, but the big bingo dabber in the sky has added great orbs of lemon rust and green gold. Leaves are falling and for the last few weeks I’ve wondered if the autumn colours have peaked. The scenery has changed less dramatically week by week than it seemed to in the spring and summer, but I suspect I’ll show up one weekend soon to find the desolation of bare branches and darkness (the clocks went back today). Just before dusk, rays of sunlight broke through the canopy of gray turning the blobs of fall colour into glimmering, quaking masses.

It looked just like a picture husband bought last fall, a watercolour scene of a lone huntsman, and husband’s first foray into art collecting. I suspect his purchase from a local gallery was as motivated by a desire to be accepted within his new community as it was by the object itself. I was condescending about his selection to start. It’s a stereotypical scene: huntsman, lone fox, and a dry stone wall.

Other than scratching their noses and feeding them apples, husband and I are about as far away from horse people as you can get. Buying this picture struck me at best as disingenuous, at worst embarrassingly obvious—something Tony Soprano might pick if he uprooted his family from New Jersey to Gloucestershire. Husband prevailed in the face of my self-consciousness. Not only did he buy the hunt scene, a few weeks later he bought a Cecil Aldin etching, the exterior of a rural pub framed on the left by a gnarled old oak, at another local gallery. At this rate of spend, I no longer needed to feel sheepish about the amount of free wine we were quaffing at these monthly openings. And the huntsman, now standing watch over our bed, has grown on me over the months too. I thought about transplanting the Gilbert and George print from our London flat for this spot, but thought better of it. Irony just doesn’t go with ticking stripe and gingham.

Cotswolds

Bingo!

Last night we attended a bingo fundraiser for the cricket club in the G.P. village hall. It was a brilliant evening, but British restraint disappointed. Instead of yelling “bingo!” when they got a line, these polite people simply raised an arm, signalling the monitor to come check their card. I vowed to husband to uphold the American oral tradition of bingo should my numbers come in. But when, in game six, they did, so did self-consciousness and up went my right arm. Despite my cultural betrayal, I was rewarded with a bottle of Croft Original Pale Cream Sherry, the label of which husband decorated with polka dots using his bingo dabber pen.

I am making up for an adult lifetime of shattered California Lotto dreams with the excellent odds of village life. Last weekend husband won a bottle of champagne in the raffle at the wine tasting fund raiser. Between this and the sherry, we’re practically stocked for Christmas.

Cotswolds

All the Interesting People Live in the Country

Last night I was reminded of my theory that all the interesting people live in the country. At the very least there is a disproportionate population of raconteurs who drink at our local wine bar. The evening’s anecdotes ranged from political opinions from the wife of a former ambassador to Israel to winding up a German surgeon who’s recently relocated from Berlin to the Cotswolds and has taken up duck hunting, replete with bad jokes about Germans chasing Englishman around the countryside.

I have a diary entry from last year that shows that, by wine bar standards, last night was nothing special. On that particular evening I first met a former covert ops man who told me about his latest manoeuvre: a rescue operation for his Notting Hill banker son. Said son had a live-in Scandinavian girlfriend with snakes for pets who “took advantage” and had to be forcibly removed in the early morning hours, along with her mooching friends and the snakes and the decomposing bodies of once-frozen mice. I suppose that’s where having a former covert ops man for a dad comes in handy, although it does strike me that a former covert ops man is the least likely person to tell you he is former covert ops.

Next was a fat Blackpudlian with a little dog. His daughter was going to work at the Guggenheim Palazzo in Venice, next door to Casa Artom where I once lived.

Last were a couple who own the inn down the road. He’s a Michael Caine look alike, and she’s a be-pearled, pashmina-ed lady from Fulham who told us how her mother would roll in her grave if she knew her daughter had married a publican. We all laughed and talked about how the BBC has gone to the dogs but the NHS is still brilliant. When in Rome…

Cotswolds

The Bishop, the Mistress, the Scribe, and the General

Church yesterday was full of surprises. The Bishop of Gloucester made a guest appearance in the tiny, ancient church hosting the service for our benefice. This is my second bishop sighting in as many months, a good track record considering my spotty history of church attendance in the last twenty years.

Stevie Winwood, the worst kept celebrity secret in this corner of the Cotswolds, was also there. He was sitting right next to the dreary postmistress who had been at our very table the night before at the wine tasting fundraiser. Last night her complaints were drowned in a tide of Beaujolais. Church also seemed a safe place to sit beside her, hymns and the etiquette of silence a safe harbour from her litany of woe.

The bishop preached a sermon on the economic crisis, surprising me with his liberal touches. He warned against jumping to the conclusion that the meltdown was a punishment from God for capitalist greed, citing parallels with the rush to condemn homosexuality at the onset of the AIDS crisis in the eighties. He went on to talk about using this as an opportunity to revert to a simpler, greener way of life — a splendid eco-warrior in his kelly green robe and golden pope hat.

Most Sundays a good sing song in church is enough to power husband through the day. But even today’s star-studded version wasn’t enough to hold back a plunge into depression. I’d almost forgotten about it over the past few months, buried as it was underneath the manic efforts in his new job. Of course I knew the early mornings and late nights and the fact that the only conversations that seemed to hold his attention were work related was less than healthy. This was just the latest version of a lid on the boiling pot even if, as far as coping mechanisms go, it was much preferable to watching husband spend four hour stretches on the couch watching repeats of property shows.

This is how the dynamic of depression works in our relationship. There’s a good patch of days or weeks or even months, fuelled by meds or work success or some other stroke of luck. Things are so “normal” that when a depression does set in – and it always does – I feel shocked. It’s as if an old lover of husband’s has showed up at the door and asked me, straight-faced, to come in for a shag with him. How dare she come back after all this time? And yet I know I have to let her in, and she’ll stay as long as she likes. My efforts to expel her with logic and reason and breaking down problems into manageable chunks just leave me feeling exasperated. All the while the mistress waits patiently on the couch for me to exhaust myself and stomp out of the room.

Yesterday’s mistress brought along the same old baggage, conflating every issue related to my new job offer with husband’s entire human history of regret and resentment. Gone was his encouragement and infectious enthusiasm that prompted me to look for a job in the country to start. In its place was a whole raft of unattractive insecurities that, in their essence, amounted to a concern over who was going to take care of him if I was spending all my time in the country. Next time perhaps the mistress could be polite enough not to show up in the middle of a life changing decision, although she’s never been known for tact.

By the time I walked into the Everyman Theatre to hear Julian Fellowes speak in the evening, I was primed for some words of wisdom, some advice, a sign from God – anything really that would help me decide whether or not to take this job. It was the final day of The Cheltenham Literature Festival, and Mr. Fellowes, director (of Gosford Park), writer (of the fine Snobs) and actor, did oblige.

“When life opens a door you have to go through it, don’t you,” he responded at one point to a question from the interviewer.

That was it. A perfect if cliched summary of what I had to do. This job was on the table and I had to take it.

But wait, what is Mr. Fellowes talking about now? Something about that sick feeling when as an actor you find yourself cast in a role to which you can offer nothing, cast through some happenstance of the right actor just not being available. Has Mr. Fellowes also been wondering why I’ve been made a generous offer to do a job I’ve never really done before after only one in-person meeting?

Useless old thesp. Useless husband. I am on my own with this decision.

Finally and thankfully, General Powell is not suffering from my crisis in decision making. As speculated in the weekend papers, news came at the end of the day that he’s endorsed Obama. On the matter of Palin he maintained his characteristic reserve, stating simply that she is not ready to be president. Ms. Palin pushes so many people’s buttons, including my own, that such understatement has been rare in the public discourse about her. And for that General Powell was all the more effective.

Cotswolds

Doppelgänger

Tonight we met our doppelgänger, exiles from London who’ve been living here almost a year. I don’t know how we’ve missed them given the size of our Cotswold town. They’re a couple that are roughly our age, no kids, professionals, and, notably, full-timers despite the need to commute into London regularly.

Right now I am in need of encouragement about trying out rural life full-time, and I welcome the living, breathing proof that residence in the Cotswolds can be achieved without quitting one’s job and becoming a sheep farmer. It’s also a bit of a relief to talk to someone and not feel like I am on an anthropological expedition where conversation is the equivalent of picking up a stick and poking around. We speak the same language, notably lacking in references to shooting, hunting, stalking, tweed, lords or ladies of any kind.

Books Cotswolds Random

Redemption Looks Like Tom Cruise

Last weekend the pheasants appeared en masse in the Cotswolds, the humble brown hens and their queenie male companions tarted up like Louis XIV out for a country stroll. They have invaded the sheep fields, pecking and skittering about the flocks. The first time I saw a pheasant last year I was enamoured. The delight faded after the third or fourth time husband was forced to slam on the brakes to avert a panic-stricken pair who decided to run out in front of the car. They are stupid birds, and I pity the sheep.

The pheasants were the most idyllic thing about last weekend. It was tits up* from the start, which was marked by an aborted attempt to get out of town on Thursday night that ended with an argument at a West London gas station. We made it out on Friday in time to attend a long planned dinner party where I drank too much. Attempts to exorcise the hangover on Saturday with painkillers and fresh air failed where dinner at a Mexican chain restaurant in Cheltenham succeeded. The pleasure of the latter was promptly undone by going to see Mama Mia!.

Oh, Meryl.

The film produced an allergic reaction in me, triggered I suspect by Pierce Brosnan singing. The upside was that my sneezing drowned out the sound of husband’s blame for the film selection all the way home.

Sunday started full of promise with a trip to a charitable country house car boot sale (aka a flea market). It was planned for the grounds of Lord Vestey’s estate, Stowell Park, but was moved to a disused airfield in the next village over due to flooding. It’s been dry for a good week so I am cynical about the motives. I think Lord Vestey thought better of having the masses invade his estate, who were indeed a different crowd than the plant loving elderly crew from the previous open gardens day at Stowell Park.

Lord Vestey had hinted at royalty in attendance in the promotional interview I had read in this month’s Cotswold Life magazine. Instead we got Laurence Llewelyn-Bowen (think cable show interior designer if you’re American) and donations to a silent auction from HRH Princess Michael of Kent. She proffered a purple velvet bag of potpourri and a set of miniature wooden Christmas figurines, both of which looked just about worthy of a shelf in Oxfam. Honestly, she’s letting the royals down. Charlie is going to have to open another organic food porn store in the area (have I mentioned the newish Highgrove shop in Tetbury?) to make up for it. I had to go sit down in the shade with a half pint of 7.7% Old Rosie cider just to get over the disappointment.

Sunday descended into nothingness with husband bitter, complaining, and getting on my nerves—a pheasant to my sheep. On cue, the alarm failed to go off Monday morning and when we did get back to London there was no hot water thanks to some fault with the boiler.

Things only got better last night when we went to see Ben Stiller’s flick, Tropic Thunder. Tom Cruise as Les Grossman showing off his best dance moves since Risky Business was alone worth the price of admission.

*Speaking of “tits up,” I recommend Annie Proulx’s new book. One of the stories, “Tits Up in a Ditch” was published in the New Yorker earlier this year and, like Tom Cruise in Tropic Thunder, the book is worth the purchase price for it alone.

Cotswolds Cycling

Post Mistress Envy

Nothing has come of the talk of an Indian Summer, but it was dry on Saturday so husband and I set off on a favorite bike route. Like many of our “healthy” activities, this involves several stops for refreshments, the first of which is a pot of coffee at the post office in the village of G.P. The post office closures that caused outrage up and down Britain when announced in the spring have finally caught up with postmistress Chris. Her service has been scaled back to twice a week and she is trying to compensate with an increased emphasis on the shop. She’s even become an agent of a rural dry cleaner.

While we were drinking our coffee an older local lady came in and introduced her also mature friend to Chris. This friend had become something of a local hero for putting up a fight that saved her own village post office. Tall and stick-straight, she had an unruly yet regal shock of white hair. She was dressed in sensible country attire of the corduroy and v-neck jumper variety that’s not particularly age or gender specific. She was also quite hard of hearing and greeted congratulations from Chris with a harsh “what?” as if it was Chris at fault for not speaking up. I could imagine why local officials backed down from her. I too wanted to congratulate her, having been enamoured with the concept of the post mistress ever since I watched the BBC production of Lark Rise to Candleford over the winter. It follows 19th century life in two rural villages in nearby Oxfordshire with a feisty postmistress, Dorcas, as protagonist. It’s a British version of Little House on the Prairie and I can’t wait for the second series.

After G.P., it’s a short but hilly ride to the next village over, which happens to have a good pub. There I rediscovered the culinary delight that is a pickled egg nestled in a bed of ready salted crisps as we surfed the weekend papers. This combination of vinegar and salt / soft and crisp achieves the same balance of flavour as the breakfast food that previously inspired me to poetic ends in this blog: fried bread and marmalade (which I proudly compared, in verse, to fruit compote and foie gras terrine).

One more steep hill and across a ridge before we ate our packed lunch of coronation chicken sandwiches in the tourist village of Lower Slaughter. There I also hit Christmas gift gold. Yes, I know it’s only September but one has to take advantage of these things when one comes across them. So as not to completely give the surprise away I will just say it involves naked British farmers and a charitable cause.

The last leg is the hardest. First it’s down through Bourton-on-the-Water, which has excellent public toilets but other than that is notable only for more teeming hordes of tourists. Then it’s up for a long time. There’s a nice bench on the ridge to catch your breath before the hills start to roll again. The Cotswolds Ice Cream Company (see Saturday’s blog) is conveniently placed at the end of the route for motivation.

Cotswolds

Murder, She Blogged

I want to kill someone. My target is the proprietress of Cotswold Ice Cream. I shall then assume her dreamy identity, creating and pedalling fair-trade dairy products from her hilltop farm.

I was inspired by a recent article in the New Yorker about Frédéric Boudin, a Frenchman and professional impostor. His biggest con was getting the Spanish authorities to believe he, at the age of 23, was a missing child from Texas who had been kidnapped by a European porn ring. The American authorities flew him to Texas where he was reunited with the family of the missing teenager. He lived with them for nearly five months before being exposed by a local private eye. The story is extraordinary and true, and I’ll put my money on a Hollywood studio having a version on the big screen by next summer.

My cunning plan to achieve the ideal rural life is of course flawed. Bourdin spent six years in a Texas jail, and he didn’t even kill anyone. Should any local law enforcement be reading this, you can relax. For now I will content myself with a tub of Cotswold Ice Cream’s passion fruit and mango madness.

Cotswolds Random

Protestant Guilt

Since I mentioned Protestant guilt in a recent post, I thought I’d expand on the theme. Both husband and I have it, a legacy from mothers who regularly dragged us to Sunday school. It generally takes the form of “we don’t deserve this,” and the intensity varies depending on the volume of wine consumed and number of telephone customer service reps I’ve lost my temper with that particular week. It’s a more vanilla type of guilt than the sex/mother anxiety and acting out I’ve observed in my lapsed Catholic friends (and Fellini). How typically Protestant.

I try to tell myself mitigating things like our cottage is the size of a shed on the estate of a truly rich Cotswoldian. It doesn’t really work. Nor is there any solace in the £50 contribution to charity that’s automatically deducted from each of my paychecks. In fact, I’m embarrassed to write down the number because it’s so low. There’s just no getting away from the fact that we own three properties (the third is our LA rental), are middle class and overfed.

I can’t justify why a second home or any number of the other excessive things I do—£16 hair conditioner and eating out five times a week to name a few—are ok in a world as fucked as ours, but then again two Zen masters could never really satisfactorily explain to me why “everything is exactly as it should be.” In the past year I’ve just accepted that I like the sound of church bells and birds, witnessing the seasons, and that being in the country seems to have some chemical effect for the better on husband’s depression. On a good day, I even try to be grateful.

Cotswolds

Cotswold Cult Explained – The Court Leet

Today as I was wedged underneath a London conference room table unplugging my laptop, a man popped his head in to ask if I knew where so and so was. With my ass still in the air I called out that I did not know so and so, but this man seemed to know me. He enquired if by chance I had been in a butcher shop in our Cotswold town over the weekend clad in lots of lycra and a bicycle helmet. I had. What are the chances of being caught in two compromising situations in one week by the same person?

It turns out I am not the only employee of my company to have discovered the charms of our lovely little Cotswold town. T. has lived there for 16 years, commuting into London every day. We exchanged lots of gushing about our town, things like the joy of walking out your front door to pick blackberries for a cobbler. Then he started telling me about an annual town dinner called “The Leet,” and it clicked that this was what G. was describing to us the wine bar a few weeks prior.

My vision of a Cotswold cult was wide of the mark, but this is a case where truth is better than fiction. It’s the kind of thing that an American eats up about living in England. Even husband was charmed by the revelation.

The annual Court Leet dates back to 1227 when King Henry III granted our town a charter entitling it to a weekly market. The town’s men have an unbroken record of meeting for the Leet annually since the charter was granted to elect honorary officials to oversee the market. Their duties include making the rounds of the local pubs and reporting on the quality of the brews. The Leet is a sort of democratic state of the union, only about important things like beer. Children get in on the action too, roaming the streets banging tin cans. When they knock at your door you are supposed to ask them who the new High Bailiff is and give them a coin for their can, a capitalist version of Halloween.

An invitation is a tricky thing, fraught with sensitivities. Some men who have been resident for years have yet to receive one. If G. pulls it off for husband it will be a coup. I’m not banking on it as G. is prone to bluster, but, for the blog’s sake, I hope it comes through.