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Cotswolds

Divorce by Argentine Tango

Husband and I spent six hours last Saturday attempting to master the basics of Argentine tango at the Aldsworth Village Hall. This sounded like a good idea when first proposed some weeks before at the wine bar. Then again, that was the same night that husband announced he was gay with a large penis and very good at lovemaking. The event organizer did follow up with an email a week or so later which I forwarded on to husband asking, “do you really want to go to this?” He responded promptly, too promptly really, with a “sure.” I should have realized that the sheer volume of email in modern life had deadened husband to the implications of this innocent seeming email. In hindsight, my next move should have been to extract a solemn pledge not to hold me accountable for any consequences of our attempts to learn to tango on a precious Saturday, especially if the weather was good.

Much to my relief the Met Office predicted rain for the intended Saturday. We awoke to a beautiful day. I went outside to investigate, hoping the clouds would look ominous. They hung low like thin white rows of breakwater on an ocean of blue. There was nothing the least bit threatening about them.

“WHAT are we doing in a village hall all day when we could be outside?” husband bellowed accusingly on cue. I paused, considering my options, then told him I’d meet him in the car.

We arrived at the Aldsworth Village Hall five minutes late. Our instructors, Klaus and Lydia, were waiting along with five other unwitting couples. To start our teachers performed a demonstration of octopus-like complexity, giving me time to take in the splendor of their attire. Like all hobbies tango dancing has its own special wardrobe that only makes sense when everyone else is wearing something equally as ridiculous. Klaus was wearing gold hoop earrings that matched the gold stud buttons in his black shirt, pin striped trousers, and black and white spats. The slender, middle-aged Lydia wore a black mini dress with red wrap sweater, knee-length black lace tights, and black high heeled dancing shoes with red piping, a tarted up version of my teenage tap shoes. Against a backdrop of suede loafered and denim attired attendees, Klaus and Lydia stood out. I myself had made an effort, donning my fantasy of what Ginger Rogers may have worn to film rehearsals: a stretchy black turtleneck and pants with ballet flats. Despite my ambitions, the overall effect was less lithe and more Liza in recent years.

We started with some stretching, then a lesson in posture before moving on to the basic six. The basic six is a sort of box step of tango that would form the core of our moves for the rest of the day. We practiced separately from our partners, boys and girls split into groups on opposite sides of the room. This, I thought, was going okay.

I should have known we were in for hard work when Lydia changed her shoes before the second lesson. The black strappy heels were replaced with glittery sliver sandals with a low, stacked heel. There was something disarming about her new look, tango on top and grandma at a wedding on the bottom, the grandma effect heightened by orthopedic looking, flesh coloured peds enveloping the balls of her feet. The hard work bit was that we would now have to execute the basic six with our partner. Husband and I started bickering immediately. Without warning he decided to add in a beat between steps, and he took my allegiance to accuracy as a refusal to let him to lead. He was, he claimed, improvising in the true spirit of tango. My objection was not to being led. My objection was that he was doing it wrong.

The wine at lunch brought some temporary relief as well as, I thought, a certain verve to the new movement we were learning called ochos. But from here things spiralled. While I was perfecting my pivots, husband started to stew. Our miserable attempts at the basic six had reminded him of how little we have in common. Now ochos were in the mix, and he was convinced our marriage was a sham. In his words he was creative, emotional, expressive, sensual. I was rigid, black and white, stubborn, robotic. We were fundamentally incompatible, and the tango proved it. That the tango is loaded with gender stereotypes — like the move where the woman feels up the side of the man’s shin with her foot to assess if he has any money in his sock — didn’t help things. For one, I know husband doesn’t have any money in his sock. Most days, especially days when he knows I’ll be with him, he can’t even remember to carry his wallet. But somehow in husband’s head my less than enthusiastic mauling of his lower leg was yet another reminder of my refusal to play the womanly role. In tango as in life I was trying too hard to wear the pants.

By the end of the third lesson husband was refusing to dance with me despite gentle attempts at persuasion from a now startled looking Lydia. Thus we found ourselves reduced to taking turns with Klaus for the treachery of backward ochos and gaunchos. It was something to see husband entwine lower legs and execute a backwards flick kick with a German dressed as an extra in a gangster film, but at this point I risked death if I attempted to capture it on my camera phone. You’ll just have to take my word for it.

Our tango-induced standoff lasted through the evening, refusing to yield even to our usual mutual delight in American Idol. But by our morning jog our imminent divorce seemed less imminent. Spring is here and it’s hard to stay mad in the face of countryside in bloom on a sunny day. We stopped to admire a pair of yellowhammers canoodling in a hedgerow and silently decided we must have something in common after all. For good measure, I even let him run ahead.

Uncategorized

Soggy Bottom, Crisp Top

Britain’s Chancellor of the Exchequer, Alistair Darling, delivered his budget speech to the nation yesterday. He is the equivalent of the Treasury Secretary in the U.S., although his title, not to mention his name, makes him sound far more intriguing. The budget was, as expected, full of tax hikes, spending cuts, and record borrowing. In other words, the same old gloom and doom to which we’ve grown accustomed since the bottom fell out last year.

True to British form of Keep Calm and Carry On, Radio 4 news featured a pie contest alongside budget anticipation in its headline stories yesterday. The makings of a perfect pork pie (Middle White pork, please) and steak and kidney pie (ox kidneys, not lamb!) were discussed at length. Pastry is crucial; both judges bemoaned the prevalence of soggy bottoms and crisp tops. The winning pork pie was of a variety known as Melton Mowbray, which has its own association that is currently seeking protected geographical indication status from the European Commission. It seems pork pies will be Britain’s answer to French wines.

This morning on BBC Breakfast the start of the two-month asparagus season in the Vale of Evesham got equal air time to the pundits’ reactions to the budget. As it should. It looked like a grand celebration of gras, as asparagus is known there, complete with dancing Morris men and asparagus sausages. Asked about the short season one grower explained, “If you take too much out now, you won’t get none next year.” Sounds like good advice for Mr. Darling to me.

Cotswolds Walking

Walk for a Spring Day: Snowshill and Stanton

A reader of this blog could be forgiven for thinking my sole source of physical exertion in the Cotswolds is lifting a wine glass to my lips. But husband and I do make use of our bicycles or hiking boots most weekends, and so I thought I’d add the occasional entry covering a particularly good ramble or cycle route, starting with our figure of eight walk last Sunday from Snowshill to Stanton and back.

Distance: 8 miles (approximately)
Duration: If you are walking with your partner, allow half a day for this ramble. If your walking group consists of only women, you can slice off an hour thanks to your intuitive sense of and ability to ask for directions. If your walking group is all male, best not to make any plans for the rest of the day and do remember to bring a GPS enabled mobile phone.
Difficulty: Moderate with some steep sections, especially if you accidentally veer off the path

Snowshill is that rare thing in the Cotswolds, a village with a name that sounds as picturesque as it really is. Other Cotswolds villages are laden with less charming names. Upper and Lower Slaughter come to mind, as do Northleach, Eastleach, and Lechlade which together form a triumvirate evocative of leeches and lecherousness. And then there’s my favorite: Cold Slad. (I wonder how often the final “d” on the sign to Cold Slad has been spray painted into a “g” over the years, misleading countless men with a fetish for heartless sluts.)

1. We start where we intend to finish: the pub. After fortifying ourselves with a ploughman’s lunch at the Snowshill Arms, we headed left out of the pub and walked along the road past Snowshill Manor, now a National Trust property. I have not been inside yet but apparently the former owner was a compulsive shopper/collector and the Trust has preserved his hoarded assortment of bikes, clocks, costumes, toys, art, and other objects that struck his fancy as he left it. If you’ve started to fight with your partner over directions at this point in the walk, it may be best to cut your losses and just pay a visit to the Manor or the lavender farm further up the road.

2. Beyond the parking lot there is a stile and signpost for a public path on the left hand side of the road. Follow it through the sheep field and down into the valley. If it is spring, this is an excellent chance to coo about just how cute lambs are and just how thick and skittish they grow up to be. Cross the stream and follow the path up the other side of the valley until you reach a dirt road running parallel to the woods. From here you can look back across the valley and admire Snowshill and the Manor and, in the other direction, the top of Broadway Tower. Take a right along the dirt road, which will be the last time that day your partner and you agree on the route, and follow it along the woods until it starts to curve around to the left.

3. Here you will have some choices, the clearest of which would be to join the well delineated Cotswold Way just off to your right. You may find, however, that your partner would rather argue about whether or not it is necessary to cross a field of bulls in order to progress to Stanton, throwing his or her Ordnance Survey map to the ground and accusing you of being antagonistic in the process (not that I know anyone who has done this). Best just to smile calmly in the face of this sort of behaviour and wait for the tantrum to pass before starting to make slow but firm progress in the direction of the Cotswold Way (which yes, I know, is where you suggested you head all along). You’ll have a good stretch of tense silence along The Cotswolds Way, punctuated by the occasional outburst that causes other fellow ramblers to hang well back. This is ok as asking them for directions at this point would be perceived as further proof of your “antagonism.”

4. After a while you’ll reach a crossroads where, if you’re lucky, a pink nosed, fluffy lamb will have broken loose from the adjoining pasture. This will give your partner a chance to “rescue” it before it succeeds in strangling itself by headbutting the wire fencing in its futile attempts to get back to mama ewe. Your partner’s ensuing feelings of heroism will help disseminate any lingering resentment towards you for having a good sense of direction. Pointing out that any old fool could see where to go just by using Broadway Tower as a landmark is not advised at this juncture, as it would jeopardize your credibility when it came to influencing the decision to go right and continue on the Cotswold Way into Stanton.

5. This is a lovely leg of the journey, where near-tame, chocolate coloured cows and their calves swirl around you on the path. Careful though. In your state of bucolic bliss you may impulsively suggest a shortcut that takes you off the Cotswold Way, through some woods, and down a muddy, precipitous decline into Stanton. Don’t be alarmed when you end up by a house called Shenberrow, a name that happens to appear at a different place on the map, a place you are pretty sure you passed about ten minutes ago. The Ordnance Survey people throw these kind of red herrings in from time to time just to make sure you’re paying attention. You’ll soon know you’re in Stanton when you arrive at a little of triangle of a green with a ceremonial coach light hanging from a wooden post. The church is to the left, and the pub is to the right. Naturally, you should head right.

6. The Mount Inn does what it says on the tin and delivers panoramic views from its two patio areas. We had long been planning a visit as the landlords are transplants from an excellent inn, The Plough in Cold Aston, nearer to us. Sure enough, Pippa the so-friendly-and-enthusiastic-she’s-practically-American hostess, was there. It was evident from the familiar, cream-laden dishes spelled out in curlicue writing on the chalk board that her partner, the chef, was also there. We drank Diet Cokes on the shady back patio before heading up and out on the path just behind and to the left of the pub.

7. The route out is more efficient than the improvised route in, and within twenty minutes you’ll be back to the site of Operation Lamb Rescue. This will stir up good memories in your partner so that he or she is susceptible to your final route alteration (my, you’re brave) which takes you off the Cotswold Way via some National Trust signposted woods. Soon you’ll be in another sheep field, then head right on the road all the way back into Snowshill. The pub may yet to be reopened for evening service but check around back and the barmaid may just serve you a pint of SBA and a ginger beer to enjoy in the garden, as she did for us.

Cotswolds

Husbands Say the Darndest Things

A sure sign you are considered a Cotswold local is when you become the recipient of the index finger wave. This greeting, exchanged amongst neighbors giving way to one and other on the narrow country lanes, consists of a quick flick of an index finger whilst both hands remain otherwise attached to the steering wheel. It may or may not be accompanied by a blink-and-you’ll-miss-it nod or ascent of the eyebrows.

Friday night on our way to the cinema we crossed paths with M. the barman, with whom we are on firm index finger waving terms. To our surprise M. stopped the car, got out, and walked over to have a chat. He couldn’t pass up the gleeful opportunity to remind husband that the previous evening in the wine bar he had made the following announcement to no one in particular and at considerable volume:

“I am very gay, my penis is very large, and I am very good at lovemaking.”

What is remarkable about this statement is that I didn’t even notice it. I too was in the wine bar Thursday night, by husband’s side for the entire evening. My lapse cannot be accounted for by my own drunkenness, enforcing as I have a two (ok, three that night) glass maximum following my recent health scare. It’s just that ludicrous remarks like these are such an old staple of husband’s banter repertoire that they don’t even register with me anymore. They, like much husband says, are filtered away by the hyper efficient mechanism my brain has engineered after nearly eight years of marriage. Apparently, however, such remarks do register with other people who are less accustomed to his verbal quirks.

Husband’s “gayness” has long made me the envy of my women friends. It amounts to a bit of sartorial flair, an eye for interior design, and a willingness, nay enthusiasm, for seeing “girlie” movies at the theater. Mention Richard Curtis or Merchant Ivory and husband will not only be first one in line but also the first one to cry. In retrospect, husband’s outburst may have been in the context of discussing his latest man crush on a chap named “Boot” (I swear) who had been in the wine bar earlier on. Mrs. R., with whom we were discussing the concept of the heterosexual man crush, also recognized the syndrome in her ex-husband.

Whatever prompted the proclamation, it is hardly the kind of thing I would expect out of the mouth of a man stricken by self-consciousness around his beloved toffy friends who frequent the wine bar like it was another room in their house. This is, after all, a man who has threatened to divorce me if I mention he is from Liverpool, land of track suits and petty crime. He can technically claim to be from the neighboring and more genteel Lancashire, having been born in a hospital in Ormskirk, and he has taken great care to cultivate his wine bar reputation as a Lancashire lad. I have long enjoyed chiding him for this fib, urging him to be true to where he’s from and who he is. I suppose I should be pleased; it seems he’s finally taken my advice.

Cotswolds

Why I Love My Town

…because it’s the kind of place where if, like last night, you happen to be eating dinner out at the local inn and at 9pm realise you have no milk at home for coffee in the morning and the shop is shut and nothing will be open before you have to leave for work tomorrow, the waitress brings you a little ceramic jug of milk sealed with cling film and tell you to just bring the jug back whenever you have time because she’s not bothered and she doesn’t charge you anything for it.

The End

England

The Grand National

The UK is in love with horse racing, so much so that there are betting tips every day on BBC Radio 4’s flagship morning news program, Today. Another regular segment on this show is Thought of the Day, in which a priest or rabbi or imam offers some spiritual insight in the form of a quickie sermon. That these two segments sit alongside each other without any trace of either irony or discomfort is perhaps the best illustration I can offer of the difference between America and the UK.

Yesterday was my favourite horse race of the year, The Grand National, which takes place at Aintree in Liverpool. We went into the wine bar to watch where M. was working behind the bar. He just happens to have a bookkeeper who is also a bookmaker—a dangerous combination if I’ve ever heard one—and so the small group that had assembled was able to call in some bets before the race started. (Between this and the wine, farmyard eggs, and homemade marmalade on offer, this place is getting dangerously close to supplying all my needs in life.)

I broke my cardinal rule of choosing my bets based on horse’s names that strike my fancy, instead opting for two tips I read in the appropriately named How to Spend It supplement in the Weekend FT. Thus it was that I had Snowy Morning and Butler’s Cabin to win. We also put £5 on Darkness to win after we realized that the wife of the man responsible for providing half our income owns him. It just seemed like the right thing to do.

At 4:20pm the race got underway in a manner fitting of the Mr Toad’s Wild Ride of horse racing. There are no starting stalls in The Grand National. Instead the forty competing horses simply rushed the starting line like a school or crazed fish. There were two false starts before the official let them get underway on the 4.5 mile course. The other distinctive feature of The Grand National is the fences, thirty of them to be exact. These are no ordinary fences. They look like giant hedgerows, taller than the horses, some with ditches and water features and names like The Chair and Becher’s Brook. The process of elimination—which is as much what winning this race is about as being fast—starts at the first jump when a handful of horses or their jockeys or both go down. This continues over every jump and it is a dramatic, sometimes wrenching site with horses lolling on their backs and jockeys in a protective, head clutching fetal position as they try to avoid impact from other horses still flying over the fences behind them. There are a handful of jockey-less horses still making their way around the course at any point in the race, oblivious to the fact that they’re disqualified and generally posing a hazard to everyone else. None of our horses won, but it was no small feat that all three finished. Only seventeen of the forty did.

Besides the finish line, another milestone was reached yesterday afternoon. Husband finally relaxed enough to start introducing some humor into my recent health scare, joking with M. about how it would go down in the community if he left me now that I am a “disabled lady.” M. wisely replied it would depend on how fast and with whom I then took up, a scenario I think husband had failed to consider. In any case, it was a good sign that husband was starting to feel a bit less stressed after the past three weeks of playing the full-time role of responsible grown-up and emotional rock.

I am feeling great but cautious, having made the mistake of spending an hour on WebMD this week reading up on MS after showing such exquisite restraint earlier in my treatment. It was filled with depressing articles called things like “MS and Your Career” or “MS and Intimacy.” But the thing that gets me most about my prognosis is the uncertainty. From here on out a diagnosis of MS is 50/50, but even if I am diagnosed it doesn’t offer much more insight into what happens next. The symptoms I could experience range from a little muscle spasicity or feeling like my foot is asleep to sudden paralysis or blindness at intervals of oh, anything from weeks to months to years between episodes. I couldn’t help seeing some parallels to the Grand National, first in the rapid fire process of elimination that got me to my initial diagnosis. Stroke, voicebox damage, and brain tumor knocked out in consecutive days like horses fallen at consecutive gates. And like MS, the odds mean little in The Grand National. The winner, Mon Mome, was 100-1, while another favourite, Hear the Echo, collapsed and died in the run in. I’ll take comfort in Butler’s Cabin, one of my bets, who finished in seventh but collapsed shortly after crossing the finish line. He was quickly revived by a dose of oxygen, springing to his feet to the relieved cheers of the crowd.

Cotswolds

Marmite Whirls and Farm Shops

Just when I think there is nothing new under the sun I get a surprise. The Cotswolds are like that. Any day now I am sure I will wake up and find the barren trees and hedges lining the lanes are overgrown with greenery and cottony May blossom. But already this week I have made two new discoveries.

The first was that I like Marmite. Or at least I found a foodstuff that contains Marmite that I like. The first time I tried Marmite was years ago, at breakfast with some Australian friends in Singapore where I was encouraged to spread it on my toast. This was followed promptly by an extended period of silent pleading with my gag reflex not to vomit on the dining table of these very nice people whose house I enjoyed staying at very much. In retrospect this might have been a bit of a harsh way to introduce me to Marmite, like giving someone their first taste of gin in a straight up martini rather than nestled in the loving arms of some Indian tonic with a slice of lime. This time the Marmite delivery was a bit more gin and tonic, spread as it was onto the buttery sides of some puff pastry and rolled up into a warm, savory pinwheel. For the first three or so I popped in my mouth I assumed I was eating some kind of cheese flavoured snack. A more observant person may have noted that the presumed cheese product was brown, but I had to be told I was eating a “Marmite whirl.” Imagine my surprise. First The Archers, now Marmite. I’ll be saying “blimey” in no time.

My second discovery of the week was the Abbey Home Farm Shop. I must have driven by it a million times, but Wednesday, stir-crazy from being indoors recuperating for the past week and a half (other than my Marmite eating Sunday lunch outing), I decided to stop in. The shop and café are at the end of a long narrow drive and it looked like someone dropped it whole from Topanga Canyon into the middle of a farm in the Cotswolds, from the Fair Trade coffee to the Indian print table cloths to the middle-aged, smiley waitress in pig tails and overalls. There is even a menu featuring multiple vegetarian dishes, which is quite a radical concept for this part of the world. In my delicate state I found it all very comforting and ordered up a banana milkshake with a broccoli and leek bake that I ate sitting outside on the wrap-around patio overlooking one of the farm’s fields. I was so taken I’ve booked us in for Easter Sunday lunch, for which I am afraid I will have to forsake the vegetarian options for the lamb roast they will be serving straight from their farm.

Random

A Room with a View

This morning I awoke to find my bedroom window framing the demise of coal size blobs of moss as they plunged to the ground. It was a violent change from the normal tree with field tableau. For a moment I thought these were the world’s first suicidal plants, then I realized it was a black bird violently shifting them from the places on the roof slates where they had nested all winter. It is officially spring, and I guess it is time for these blobs to make a nest for someone else.

I have spent a lot of time looking out this bedroom window over the last week as I’ve been laid recuperating from the after-effects of the steroid treatment, which was in some ways more debilitating (if less scary) than the symptoms. It is, thankfully, a rather nice view at which I could look more or less gaze indefinitely. The twelve window panes, whose frames are badly in need of a paint job, look out over a high stone wall and a large and handsome stone house behind us, a tree towering four stories to the left, and behind, St. George’s field which slopes up into a horizon of green, tree-lined hills. I’ve been to see the neurologist yesterday who seemed as pleased at my progress as he was stoic and scary when he first saw me a week before and broke the news. He’s prescribed one more week of looking out the window, then it’s a cautiously optimistic game of wait and see.

Random

Big Head

I have always had a big head, literally. If a hat label says “one size fits all,” I don’t even bother trying it on. I need “large” at a minimum, preferably “extra-large.” Over the years there have been both great millinery victories — my fuchsia, feathered Royal Ascot extravaganza — and disasters, as when my favorite Kangol white safari-style summer hat strayed into the clothes dryer and forever out of my wardrobe. But last week my brain decided to take the “big head” issue to new heights by engaging in what my neurologist terms “a clinically isolated incident of inflammation.”

I don’t mean to make light of my medical condition, but I hope that by demonstrating my good humor you’ll be more likely to forgive me the vanity I demonstrated upon hearing that my immediate course of treatment for an inflamed brain would be three consecutive days of intravenous steroid treatments.

“Are there are any side effects?” I asked the doctor, by which of course I meant would the steroids make me puffy. I am currently doing puffy just fine without any extra assistance.

As it turns out the steroids are an anti-inflammatory and therefore no puffiness involved. I can vouch for that now, having finished day three yesterday. The only side effects seem to be that I am fatigued and incapable of staying on my feet for more than an hour without becoming very tetchy. Which gives me time to blog.

The whole “incident” started a week ago last Saturday. Husband and I were out for a bike ride when I commented that I felt like I had marbles in my mouth. This continued over the weekend. I was finding it increasingly hard to talk, which is not without irony since I am well known for being a motor-mouth interrupter amongst both friends and colleagues. I felt like a drunk person trying really hard to sound sober or someone coming off Novocaine trying to form words convincingly. By lunch hour on Monday I knew something was wrong.

I knew something was wrong even though nobody else seemed to notice. I only vaguely sounded like I was slurring to my own husband. When I asked two co-workers with whom I share an office if I sounded funny they laughed and said only because I was American. Then one asked if I had been drinking and laughed some more. Trusting my instincts got me into treatment within a week of first recognizing something was wrong. And so concludes the public service announcement portion of this post.

Last week then devolved into a series of rapid progression, process of elimination medical appointments. Tuesday afternoon the GP put me through a drill not dissimilar to that of a drunk driver before handing me off to an ear, nose and throat specialist on Wednesday. After a camera up my nose to look at my vocal chords and more drunk driving tests, I was dispatched swiftly to “the donut,” or MRI scanning machine and given an appointment with the neurologist for the following Monday night. On Thursday the ENT called me during a break in the operating theater to assure me there were “no tumors or anything like that,” but to also let me know he had gotten me in with the head of neurology at 6pm on Friday. No tumors good, prioritised Friday night neurologist appointment bad.

The neurologist had me tell the whole story of my symptoms and did yet another round of drunk driver tests before he spilled the beans on my scan. I knew there were some beans to spill because he waited for me to put on my shoe before he’d start. Then out came the “clinically isolated incident” bit. The bad news was that multiple incidents constitute a diagnosis of MS. I had to ask if multiple meant two, as in if this happens one more time. It does.

I usually call people by their first initial in this blog since I am generally either poking fun at them or commenting on their prolific drinking habits. However, I feel obliged to give a shout out to my neurologist, Dr. Fuller, who refused to allow husband and I to get carried away with what might happen and instead kept us focused on the immediate steroid treatment. Dr. Fuller is tall enough to look like a retired pro basketball player and calm, gentle, and patient enough for me to wish just a little bit he was my dad. He even made a special trip to see me on Saturday at the hospital when I was getting my first treatment.

The hospital is a private one in Gloucester, a town I last visited in February for my citizenship ceremony. I am glad to be getting my treatment out here rather than in London. For one, husband can drive me and park easily. There is neither the hassle or the expense of taking a cab, just rather pleasant green space on the twenty mile drive between our cottage and the hospital. The hospital itself is more well maintained Travel Lodge than institutional. For the three days of my treatment I had the same private room overlooking a courtyard. There was a flat screen TV, a nondescript Impressionist framed print, and wood effect laminate flooring. The nurse wrote a note so the janitor didn’t throw my newspapers and magazine away. Each day a waiter brought a pot of tea. The doctor who poked me with needles every day was a Romanian named Elian who practised his English idioms on me. I didn’t mind because it distracted me from the vials of blood he was filling from my arm, except for the time on day three he tried to make a joke about having to take more blood but I didn’t get it was a joke.

The nice thing about the post-treatment fatigue is that I don’t have any interest in investigating websites on MS or Lupus (husband rifled through my chart to look at the second round of blood tests that had been ordered and blurted out Lupus, doing nothing to relieve my anxiety). I am surprised by my willingness to sit in the not knowing this week and attempt to recuperate, considering I am normally a control freak. I figure there will be plenty of time for obsessive medical investigation. Right now I’m more about Gilmore Girl reruns.

Europe

Picky and Pristine in Barcelona

In 2008 we only managed to visit the continent twice, enthralled as we were with our new life in the Cotswolds. Every weekend here still feels like a vacation, but nonetheless we vowed to take better advantage of our proximity to Europe this year. We even made a list, top of which coincidentally includes two cities that have recently featured in films, Barcelona and Bruges.

The other night we saw In Bruges, the story of two hit men hiding out in the title city after a job has gone wrong back in London. Colin Farrell plays Ray, who upon arriving in Europe’s hallmark chocolate box city declares it “a shithole.” It was pretty much the same reaction husband had to Barcelona last month as I forced him on a Gaudi death march across the traffic strewn city, taking him past the Palau Musica, to Casa Batlló and La Pedrera, then finally Park Guell. Taking in Park Guell’s unwashed masses and makeshift vendors miraculously hawking the exact same crap as their brethren in Venice Beach, husband could be heard muttering a steady refrain of, “I could be cycling around the Cotswolds right now.”

Husband is a very picky traveler, preferring among other things non-smoking restaurants with dinner available from 7pm onwards (a complete and utter rejection of the 1/8 Basque heritage he has been known to proudly cite in explanation for his perma-tan). I should have realized there were going to be fundamental Catalan culture clash issues, but there were grim moments in store even I could not have predicted. The tapas we ate in La Boqueria was some of the best I’ve had, but husband narrowly averted a pickpocket in the process. We pretended for awhile that a wine bar we found in the Gotic district was quaint, but couldn’t ignore the view across the narrow medieval alley of a souvenir shop selling authentic Catalan memorabilia like a Dolce and Banana t-shirt.

The pinnacle of our Barcelona misadventures was an outing to see Woody Allen play jazz at a swank hotel on Oscar night. When we noticed the signs advertising the event in the hotel window it seemed plausible. It wasn’t much of a leap to imagine that Woody, always a bit anti-establishment, would rather be in Barcelona than in the paparazzi glare of L.A. And hadn’t I read somewhere he regularly plays clarinet in a New York hotel? We were near the end of the Gaudi death march and, having absorbed vitriol from husband all day, I was rather smug that my relentless sight seeing ambition had yielded such a result for the evening’s entertainment. It was one of those divine moments of traveller’s serendipity, like stumbling upon an open air string quartet in an Italian piazza on a starry night.

Of course Woody Allen was by Penelope Cruz’s side in Hollywood that night when she won the Oscar for her role in Vicky Cristina Barcelona. We found out after having taken a taxi all the way back up to the swank hotel. The maitre d’—who spoke much better English than the bellboy we’d spoken to in the afternoon—explained it was a Woody Allen tribute band.

Despite my track record in Barcelona, I am not disheartened from pursuing our European quest. We head for Bruges in April. I could be in for more trouble with husband if what Ray said about it is true: “If I grew up on a farm and was retarded, Bruges might impress me. But I didn’t, so it doesn’t.”