g
Random

Edna & the Steakhouse

Today the Cotswolds starts its transformation into little Ireland with the first race in the Cheltenham festival, the week long horse racing event that brings in punters and trainers alike from across the Irish sea. The wine bar, as usual, will show the races on TV and provide an in-house bookie so the locals don’t have to brave the racecourse crowds thirteen miles down the road. But this year I will have to phone in my bet on Denman as I have traded in my bar stool for a seat on a flight to JFK. (Thing I love about my Cotswold town #389: being able to phone in a bet to my local wine bar.) In New York I can expect to find a week of confinement in the stale walls of a Time Square hotel conference room, to be followed by two consecutive evenings of steakhouse dinners where the most St Patrick’s Day merriment I can hope for is some green lager to wash down my boiled corn beef and cabbage special.

I find the fact that my company is choosing to hold this meeting in NYC and forcing me to attend work dinners in locations chosen by a secretary catering for the tastes of my predominantly forty-something male colleagues downright cruel (to think of all that New Yorker “Table for Two” reading gone to waste). I don’t mind so much when these meetings are held in the Boston suburbs where my expectations for free time are set no higher than an outing to the mall in the Hyundai rental car followed by a turkey melt from Marriott room service. But New York? I have old friends to catch up with, Tim Burton exhibits to line up for, and all of Central Park willing me to get lost in it jogging as is my tradition each time I visit.

Thankfully I have managed to eke out one opportunity for frivolity in the Big Apple, which presents itself tonite not long after I land. An old friend from Los Angeles (who once visited us in the Cotsies, as he calls it) who now lives in New York has, trading on his newfound local television celebritydom I like to think, scored tickets to a preview of Dame Edna’s new Broadway show. I am hopeful that this will be followed by a late dinner and drinks anywhere that’s not a steakhouse.

Cotswolds

Lambing

I still haven’t made it to lambing at Henry’s farm, although it’s an offer I’ll be pursuing tonite when we see him to celebrate his birthday. As it happens, I didn’t need to know a real life shepherd to have a front row seat for lambing. BBC Two has been running a Lambing Live series from a farm in Wales for the past few weeks in prime time. It was so popular last Tuesday it killed its competition, University Challenge and Master Chef. I like to think the whole idea of prime time animal husbandry is one of the many examples of British quirkiness, but maybe not. I remember reading last year in the New Yorker that raising chickens is reaching new heights in popularity in the US, so maybe it’s only a matter of time before stateside viewers are watching hens lay their eggs after American Idol.

After our horrible winter, lambing is being joined by some other early indicators that spring is nigh. Evenings are noticeably lengthening. The snow drops have been out for weeks, and today on a bike ride I noticed patches of green shoots promising daffodils everywhere. The sun even made an appearance, although wearing bike shorts was a bit optimistic on my part.

Cotswolds

This Little Piggy Went to Market

I’ve known what the name of this post was going to be ever since I got the word I was going to market, specifically the Worcester sale of 200 store cattle, 1 stud bull, and 800 store sheep, plus calves and weanlings. (No pigs, I know, but I still couldn’t resist.) Husband was invited to tag along with former gamekeeper and current shepherd, Henry, some weeks ago. I was very jealous, having developed quite a thing for country auctions – admittedly of the marmalade and homemade wine variety — in the past few years. Granted I had no real use for livestock given our back garden is courtyard sized and covered in pebbles, but still I wanted to go.

So a few days before the market I persuaded husband to ask Henry if I could come along. Henry responded by text: “Yeh corse she can come as long as she keeps out of the way and says nothing! Tell her not to nod, wink or twitch while they are selling!” It didn’t take long to figure out why my invitation came with such a warning. In the first auction of the day the bidding for a pen of sheep seemed to be done solely by either a widening of the eyes or a pocket encased finger wag. But this most recent event in my continuing education in rural ways started long before the bidding began.

First we had to decide what to wear. Husband and I were both very excited about the prospect of our authentic rural outing and on the morning of we discussed our outfits like no outfit I had discussed since readying myself for a Friday night at Skatetown USA circa 1983. Husband settled on his checked shirt, a red tie, and grey sweater vest with jeans and wellies. I donned my suede elbowed turtleneck sweater, jeans, Chelsea boots, and a flat cap. I decided bringing a purse just wasn’t the thing to do at a livestock auction so I carried my things in the pocket of my very appropriate, moth-eaten Burberry wax coat. Luckily said pocket was designed to hold a game bird so it had no problem with my mobile phone and wallet, which is the closest thing to a pheasant it’s ever likely to see.

At 8:30am we arrived, as instructed, at a farm just outside Stow-on-the-Wold. It’s only nine or ten miles north of our Cotswold town, but it’s higher up and as such, has its own micro climate that still included the snow that had melted off in the valley villages weeks ago. Henry texted that he was still busy loading up the lambs he was taking to market, so we had a poke around while we waited. There were some kennels and a roaming herd of chickens, including a handsome hen of marbled black and white who seemed distressed by my attempts to take a picture of her with my phone. The Gloucester Old Spot, annoyed by how difficult it was for her hooves to gain a foothold on the frozen mud of her plot, was very amenable to the distraction of some wannabe country folks eager to pat her snout. She was so cute I thought about swearing off pork. That lasted as long as it took to drive to the market and discover there was a café and enough time for a bacon buttie and cup of tea before the auction began.

Before breakfast we had watched as the lambs from Henry’s farm and others were unloaded into sheltered pens. Once the unloading was done, an elaborate sorting process began to get sheep of similar shapes and sizes grouped together for sale. It looked like chaos, with pens opening and closing at seemingly random intervals and a man in a blue jumpsuit making a noise somewhere between a whistle and a hiss while waving his arms like he was directing a 747 onto the taxiway. I tried to stay out of the way while Henry got into the pens and helped herd errant sheep. I figured husband and I had already embarrassed him enough by having our picture taken dipping our boots in the buckets of antiseptic by every door.

When the auction bell rang at 10:30am we headed outside and joined the sea of flat caps. The auctioneer, a youngish better looking version of Prince Harry dressed in a checked shirt, tie, and white lab coat, stepped up on the concrete wall that ran the length of the pens and started the bidding. When the first lot went for £42, I was shocked at how cheap sheep were and felt an irrational itch to bid. Then Henry explained that was the price per sheep, not the entire pen. As we walked from pen to pen following the auctioneer, Henry also explained the difference between a Texel and a Suffolk Cross and why his farm opts for an unhandsome French breed called Charolais: small heads and big bodies means easy lambing and good meat. He also answered a thousand and one other questions we had that were no doubt the farming equivalent of a six year old asking his father why the sky is blue. In addition to husband asking Henry if his outfit was alright (“Your flat cap is too new” was the reply), these questions included what store lambs and store cattle means, which is that these animals were being sold off to continue to be raised on other farms rather than destined straight for the abattoir. In the end this would be their fate, but somehow knowing this wasn’t imminent made the proceedings jollier.

After the sheep were sold, we all headed into a sort of miniature amphitheater for the cattle auction. There were plywood step bleachers, but most people stood on the cold dirt floor facing a half moon shaped pen and the auctioneer, a different, older man this time, in a booth behind. The star of the show was the stud bull, a Pingauzer named Elgany John Jack. From the program notes I know his mother’s name was Our Wilma and his father, Edenbrook Cassius. Sadly, our stud bull never knew his father as Our Wilma was serviced by Edenbrook Cassius via the medium of Imported Austrian Semen. Perhaps it was rage over his absentee father that made it sound like King Kong rattling the bars of his cage when Elgany John Jack stepped onto the weighing pen scales. But when this ginger colored beast entered the viewing arena I couldn’t help thinking he had a touch of Liberace about him. It was the combination of his mop of curls poised on his head like a too small toupee, the golden ring through his nose, and the way his hooves made him walk like he was wearing a pair of Manolos. In the end he went for substantially more than a pair of Manolos.

We ended the morning with an instant coffee in the café. There, seated with a few other shepherds, talked turned to lambing which starts in March at Henry’s farm. I learned that snow is not of much concern during lambing but rain is, that you rarely need to assist a ewe in giving birth (despite what I had seen on all those episodes of All Creatures Great and Small), and that the whole thing lasts the better part of two weeks. That’s good because it means I’ll be back from my vacation in Florida in time to take part in this next installment of my rural education.

Cotswolds

The Elusive Devilled Egg

Last night I watched an episode of Curb Your Enthusiasm. It’s the one where Larry holds the elevator for a woman who then proceeds to unconsciously body block the corridor and beat him into the doctor’s office where they both have appointments. The woman signs in first and, as a result, gets seen first by the doctor even though Larry’s appointment time was earlier than hers. Outraged, Larry then tries to enroll the entire office staff and waiting room in the gross injustice of it all. And today at lunch at the farm shop I had my very own Larry-esque experience.

I’ve written about the farm shop before—it was a revelation when we found it because it specializes in vegetarian lunches. That’s an unusual gastronomic gambit in this pie and sausage and chips and mash part of the world, but one that has found an audience in that rare Cotswold breed of eco-friendly yuppies slinging free-range cotton wearing toddlers from their hips and at least two people who miss California.

One of the highlights of the farm shop veggie lunch is that it comes with an array of salads. But lately we’ve noticed that if we don’t get there early enough in the lunch service the salads start to dwindle. So instead of lentils vinaigrette, roasted beets and bulgar with your courgette lasagna, you might be pawned off with some greens tarted up with a dash of shredded carrot. Today when we arrived I was heartened to see that generous portions of all salads remained on display in the orange Le Creuset dishes that line the counter where you order and pay. And I was delighted to see the day’s salad selections included devilled eggs, one of my favorites. (Yes, I really am sad enough to get excited over a devilled egg. I promise you when it is an egg from a chicken on the farm where you are eating it is worth getting excited about.)

Husband insisted on starting with a small bowl of spinach and potato soup. I hesitated, not because spinach and potato soup sounded bad, but because I suspected that would mean the salads would start running out while we dawdled over an appetizer. I examined the display of salads again. I may have even counted the devilled eggs. And then I reached way down in the depths of my dignity and self-restraint and ordered us two bowls of spinach soup to be followed by the curried chick pea stew with herbed polenta for husband and a beetroot and goat cheese tart for me.

Next we had to find ourselves a table, a task made all the more challenging by a large shopping cart planted in the middle of the dining area. The cafe is connected to a shop that sells produce from the farm plus the standard upscale, we-fancy-ourselves-green assortment of Fair Trade, Ecover cleaning products (or “dish soap without suds” as husband calls it), and imported Indian print tablecloths. (Lest you think I am mocking such eco-consumers, which I am, I’ll ‘fess up now to having purchased from all of these product categories at one time or another.) Of course there are no new shopping bags on offer, so the contents of this shopping cart were lying loose in the cart or stuffed in second hand plastic bags or old cardboard boxes. The overall effect was to make its owners — who were in the midst of enjoying plates of stuffed peppers — look homeless, an image further perpetuated by the woman’s holey woolen socks encased in cork sandals. It took a double take to realize the holes were on purpose, an inexplicable variation on fingerless gloves.

We had just managed to wedge ourselves into a table behind the trust fund hobo trolley when the spinach soup arrived. It was tepid so we sent it back to get warmed up. I tried to distract myself with The Secret Agent column in the FT, but I just felt self-conscious holding my pink paper what with all the Soil Association and mother earth anarchist genre publications littered about. And inside I was starting to fret about what I imagined to be the rapidly dwindling supply of devilled eggs. The spinach soup came back hot, almost vindictively so. More time passed while we waited for the soup to cool down, but when it did it was good enough to occupy me until our entrees arrived with, sure enough, no devilled eggs.

“Are you out of devilled eggs?” I asked the waitress even though the answer was as self-evident as the dismay on my face.

“Oh yeah, sorry,” she replied flatly and walked away.

At that moment I felt a sense of violation that I knew Larry David would understand. There was, after all, an undeniable injustice about the fact that I had ordered and paid for my entree well before any of those people who actually got to eat my devilled eggs had done the same. Surely my payment should have put a hold on a devilled egg? But no, the sacred and implicit devilled egg reservation contract had been broken between the farm shop and me. I avoided an outburst this time — after all there were all those free-range cotton wearing toddlers about that I didn’t want to upset — but next time I think I will be taking my devilled egg with me when I order.

England Random

Horses for Heroes

This weekend I received an email inviting me to invest in a share of a race horse syndicate. The days when I would have found this odd are behind me. The Cotswolds are, after all, horse country and their signature horse racing event, The Cheltenham Festival, is only a month away. What was different about this invite is that it was for a charitable cause, specifically Help for Heroes, which provides assistance to injured soldiers. For every £5,000 share bought, £1,000 is donated to the charity.

Were it not for the fact that husband and I recently siphoned all our spare cash into another investment, I would have been tempted. A week or so ago we became official owners of a single share of a London musical. It took some last minute coaxing to get husband to take the plunge, but, with the help of dismal interest rates on savings accounts, I managed to convince him that greasepaint and footlights were as legitimate as a six-month CD. I, on the other hand, required no persuasion. I was raised on a steady diet of West End musicals, from Kismet to The King and I. I tap danced my way through my eleventh year to the accompaniment of the original cast recording of 42nd Street and, if challenged, am fairly certain could still sing the lyrics to Cats and Annie from beginning to end. I even liked Starlight Express.

I don’t really expect to get much back from our West End investment. I’m in it for the vicarious thrill and figure it can’t be much worse than the stock market or property in recent years. But should our musical ship come in, I’ll make sure to donate something to Help for Heroes. In the meantime, should you be in the market for a race horse for a good cause, you can buy your share here: http://www.kimbaileyracing.com/help_for_heroes_partnership.html.

California Cotswolds

Gone to California in my Mind

It may just be down to the fact that we are having the worst winter the UK has seen for thirty years, but I think it could be time to start making a plan to move back to Los Angeles. It’s an idea husband has been dropping into conversation on and off for at least six months now. I’ve been resistant, not least because I’m liking my job at the moment. But a few weeks ago, something shifted. I’ve noticed that I’ve started making mental lists of things I want to do before I leave. There’s the Trouble House and the Kilkenny, pubs I drive by most days but have never made the time to stop in to. And I need to eat at the Plough at Kingham so I can taste Alex James’ goat cheese. In London there’s the Soanes museum and that Eritrean restaurant on the Harrow Road I’ve been meaning to try. Will I make it to the longest running show in the world, The Mousetrap, before it closes? What about the Louisana museum in Copenhagen and the new Magritte one in Brussels, not to mention Stockholm and a return cycling trip to Alsace? All of a sudden it seems like there is so much to do, and that doesn’t even include finding a job in California or any of the two thousand other practicalities associated with hopping the Atlantic.

Worst of all I feel like some kind of fraud. I’ve spent close to two years blogging about the charms of rural Britain and yet, faced with a little snow, I’m ready to turncoat on the market square wine bar and settle into a booth at Gilbert’s on Pico with a carafe of margaritas. Despite the fact that there’s a red passport snuggled up to the blue one in my sock drawer, I guess at heart I’m still an American in the Cotswolds.

Books Cotswolds

The Printed Page

My Kindle conversion is incomplete. I’m still trudging through The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo (my choice of verb reflects the writing more than the digital experience), but I only made it through two Saturdays of downloading the Weekend FT before returning to the pink printed page. Dividing up the sections with husband for consumption over lunch at the farm shop only works in analog form. And I proved to myself today that the allure of paper still extends to books when I wondered into a second hand book shop in Cheltenham to kill time while husband shopped for Blu-Rays.

I was drawn in by the well curated shelf facing the sidewalk, tempting me with Ian McEwan and Jonathan Safran Foer and Patrick Gale. In the end I sprang for the 1949 Gloucestershire edition of The Little Guides. How could I not? I was taken in by the back cover which informed me that The Little Guides were banned from publication in 1940 for reasons of national security. And that was before I noticed that the tattered cover features a print of our Cotswold town, captured from the vantage point of the hill behind our house looking down over our curved lane and the clock tower side of the church. I know the vista well—there’s a bench at the top of the hill today that makes it a good spot to sit and gaze. Apart from the missing primary school, little has changed in the last sixty years. Even the text still applies. The description of our town starts with, “…a good place with good stone buildings dating from medieval times to early 19th cent. The later buildings are not so happy,” as if prescient of the 1980s developments that would eventually bookend the town.

Attached to the back cover is a fold out map in perfect condition save for one tear at the seam. Here one major change to the Cotswolds is marked out by black squares, indicating railway stations in nearby Cirencester and Chedworth and Withington that are long gone. One day books may go the way of the railroads courtesy of Amazon and Google and Apple, but for now I’m still capable of being smitten with the printed page.

Cotswolds

Consumption Cottage

While I feel fine in all other respects, I have developed husband’s kidney ejecting cough and spent the better part of the week annoying my co-workers with it. My own father seemed utterly exasperated by the racket, and he was on the other end of a phone a few thousand miles and an ocean away. I’ve grown bored of catering to the cough, so a glass or two of pink prosecco at the wine bar with R&R last night seemed a good idea. Afterwards we lured them to our cottage to watch Celebrity Big Brother eviction night in the recently renovated loft, which has distressingly become known as the man cave. (With its exposed stone gable walls and light pouring in from the roof window, I had once imagined it as a cosy reading and writing room. One gable is now dominated by a fifty-four inch telly and ever since the Blu-Ray player arrived at Christmas, I’ve stopped fighting the inevitable.)

Within half an hour of Davina, a previously healthy R. was hacking away too. Now Drovers Cottage on College Row is known as Consumption Cottage on Consumption Row, and I have acquired the Dickensian moniker of Consumption Lil. I am afraid the labels might stick, providing yet more ammunition for husband in his campaign to return to California.

Books England

Hey Lady

My new year’s resolution last year was to read something by Proust. I really wanted to read Alain de Botton’s How Proust Can Change Your Life but somehow that didn’t see like a very legitimate thing to do without having read anything by Proust first. A year later the red spine of volume one of In Search of Lost Time is still staring back at me from my bedside table, nestled between Any Human Heart and A Thousand Splendid Suns. Unlike those book club mandated tomes, the pages of ISOLT remain unsullied by my nub nailed fingers.

So this year I made another new year’s resolution, one that would enable me to keep last year’s, albeit behind schedule. I’d let my subscription to The New Yorker expire in February and reallocate NYer reading time to ISOLT. It seemed like a good plan until this morning when Rachel Johnson, sister of the slightly mad Boris the mayor of London, appeared on BBC Breakfast to talk about the magazine she is now editing, The Lady.

Now why didn’t anybody tell me about The Lady? It’s taken me years to unravel so many of the mysteries of proper British life, things like marmite, the difference between hunting and shooting, and what a gilet is and how you pronounce it. And yet all along—125 years to be exact —there has been a magazine to guide me in the ways of British ladyship. According to the news anchor its reputation of late has been the best place to advertise if you are in search of a nanny, but Ms. Johnson has livened up the old dowager. It even has literary and Cotswoldian links, having been established by the grandfather of the Mitford sisters. Coming up on my one year anniversary of becoming a Brit I feel I am practically a lady anyway. I can’t think of a better way to celebrate than subscribing….to yet another weekly.

Random

Cabin Fever Chronicle

Tuesday
Left work at 2pm at urging of husband who reported heavy snow at home. He’s a bit of a drama queen so I was skeptical until a colleague showed me the live camera feed from my exit off the M5. It appeared husband’s reports of eminent disaster were, for once, not greatly exaggerated. A journey that normally takes me an hour lasted four thanks to jack-knifed trucks, detours and several pauses to consider if I, like the tens of other drivers who littered the sides (and sometimes main thoroughfares) of the roads, should resign myself to spending the night in my car. In the end I abandoned the Prius on a turn-out on All Alone and walked down the last impassable hill to our cottage.

Relaxed in front of the fire by watching first day in the house of Celebrity Big Brother. Normal cast of washed up actors and singers, topless models in search of a career change, and current and former lovers of the famous and infamous. For once there’s a bonafide star too. What’s Vinnie Jones doing on CBB?

Wednesday
Snowed in so worked from home. Snow plough came through but it snowed as fast as he could plough. Left house once on foot to pick up provisions from the local store where there were lines out the door populated by stranded locals stockpiling milk and bread. Still reveling in the novelty of the winter wonderland that is our village like only a former Angeleno could. Husband is less enchanted. He’s been home sick all week with a cough that sounds like he’s trying to expel his kidneys through his mouth. When he’s not coughing he’s moaning about moving back to California where they don’t have weather like this. Tried not to feel annoyed in the midst of all this snowy loveliness.

Thursday
Still snowed in. Going on three weeks of being together twenty-four hours a day with husband thanks to the preceding two weeks of Christmas holidays, only this week there is no indulgence in wine and food to distract us. We couldn’t even pretend we were going to keep the stock new year’s resolution to exercise more as it was impossible to get to the gym by car and exercising outside was too treacherous. I’ve become an inert object. The most movement I can manage is to loll around on the floor in front of the wood burning stove in some half-hearted approximations of yoga stretches.

Husband seems to be addicted to me, only it’s a weird sort of addiction where the object of his desire offers not the pleasure of the crack pipe or whiskey bottle or Twinkie box but only exasperation and annoyance. During a one hour separation when I retreat to the bedroom for a conference call away from his kidney-ejecting cough, I receive three emails from him: an Outlook invite to—weather allowing—buy a shower head at the DIY shop in Cheltenham on Saturday, an update that our remodeling project in London is going very poorly, and a final email informing me he is not coming back from California when he goes for a business trip later this month. I accept the DIY store invite and return my attention to the call.

CBB has become my only reason for living. Who knew Heidi Fleiss was so likable, a sort of hibernating field mouse with botoxed lips who only wakes up to call Stephen Baldwin a dork? And Stephen is, at best, a dork. He’s one of those recovering addicts who’s shunted all his pent up addictive energy into another obsession, in his case fundamental Christianity. And yet even without his four gram a day habit he’s still the kind of narcissistic, finger jabbing the air, overly emphatic windbag that any sober person who has been around coked up people will immediately recognize. The only difference between then and now for Mr. Baldwin is likely to be the content. Now he talks about the Bible, then — if my own experience in L.A. is anything to go by — he would have been talking about his brilliant idea for a screenplay.

Take this opportunity to remind husband that the grass isn’t all greener in L.A. Cringe-inducing Stephen Baldwin types—many of whom are drinking coffee and reading scripts at the Coffee Bean on Main Street as I type—are as much a part of the SoCal landscape as clear, sunny skies with highs in the seventies.

Friday
Husband has given me his cold. I am also convinced I have an ear infection and fight my way to the doctor’s office to demand antibiotics, during which I notice the once lovely snow is now desecrated with marigold puddles of dog pee. Patient, cashmere draped woman doctor shines a light in my ear and reveals that the shooting pains in my face are due to a build up of ear wax. In short order I am discussing the merits of olive oil versus sodium bicarbonate ear drops with the chemist. How long until it’s hemorrhoid and denture cream? Thank god it’s Friday night which means a double bill of CBB.