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England

Terror Firma

Husband and I are sitting on a hill outside the Wainwright Inn, a pint of Wainwright ale and a packet of scampi fries (seafood flavoured “cereal snacks”—so British, so processed, so good) in hand. Husband has also just produced two packages of sandwiches from his backpack that he has squirreled away in case of a mountain top emergency (nevermind we are both are packing “natural” calorie stores I’d estimate conservatively at 1 week+). He is laughing now, but a short hour ago he was on the brink of a full-fledged panic attack.

As we headed back over the crag following our soothing paddle around Lake Grasmere, I was impressed by my newly adventurous husband. Rocky brooks were crossed with nimble bounds as we made our ascent, no sign of the panic-stricken shell of a muttering man wondering around a dried stream bed in Topanga Canyon who had made an appearance during my one and only mountain hiking experience with him years earlier. As we “summitted” the crag, the tone shifted. He consulted other walkers for advice on which of the three forks to pursue (admittedly the map only showed one). The sheer drop in front of us was ruled out and after a few minutes following another couple along a ledge, the path to the right was also abandoned. We headed left, which wasn’t exactly a trail but given the bright sun, a multi-network bar displaying BlackBerry, and legions of other walkers, including small children, in sight, I felt confident.

Husband on the other hand was starting to flap. Literally. He interrupted an elderly couple mid-sandwich to enquire, with a noticeable vibrato and pitch-elevation in his voice, if they knew a gentle way down. I hung back, hoping not to be associated with my high-strung husband, as the country gent advised him with the non-chalance of a seasoned fell-walker to continue left. No, elderly country gent did not need to consult husband’s map (yes, husband asked him, wanting to be very sure about the advice so casually dispensed). Elderly gent informed husband that he did not have his glasses and so could not read a map. I thought it unwise to point out to my husband that this man was so unworried about “getting down” he didn’t even bring his glasses.

To be fair, husband did not like me spend childhood summers at Camp Merrie Wood in North Carolina’s Sapphire Valley where opening day included a camp-wide romp up Old Bald with Guinevere the Saint Bernard, followed swiftly by a week of backpacking on the Appalachian Trail. Neither did husband have a grandfather who took him around the foothills of San Bernardino on a neighbor’s Palomino horses or hiking in Forest Falls. Instead, the quintessential summer outing for my husband and his brother was a car trip to Parbold Hill (forever parboiled hill in my head), culminating in a thermos of luke-warm coffee (yes, coffee for kids) and a Cadbury Club bar. While still sitting in the car.
Husband’s early outdoor life is summed up in a snapshot of him outside his childhood home, Seaview Terrace. He is grim faced, in full scout regalia, and holding a duffel bag as big as him, packed by a fretting mother for his one and only Boy Scout camping trip. He describes it as four days of certain ridicule and an introduction to alpha male posturing. His entire scouting career was over in six months.

In this context, our successful descent along our makeshift mountain goat path is somewhat miraculous. Following elderly gent’s advice we were safely to the Wainwright Inn within an hour, which takes its name from a famous Lake District fell walker. If you complete a Wainwright hike, it’s called “bagging a Wainwright.” Suffice it to say I do not think I will be bagging any Wainwrights with husband in tow. The gentle undulations of the Cotswolds hills are infinitely more suitable for this lady-man of mine.

England

On Lake Grasmere

I am writing this blog from Lake Grasmere, specifically a lavender coloured, double-skinned fibreglass row boat called Annie. (I would have preferred Theodonia or even Norma, but this didn’t seem like the kind of whim the 18-year old who took our money and prepped the boat would cater to, so I didn’t bother to ask. Plus I was too busy avoiding an aggressive signet intent on my shins).

I have the most network bars on my BlackBerry since arriving in The Lake District yesterday. This fact along with the Wordsworth association makes it seem an ideal spot from which to blog while my husband rows me ’round. The mix of high-tech and nature is echoed around us. Low clouds draw shapes on the hillsides. A ram scratches his rump on a fallen branch whose shape seems custom designed for the task. A cobalt blue firefly dances on the rim of our boat. And all the while fighter jets in training sear the sky above us.

Despite spending most of yesterday comparing the Lakes unfavourably to the Cotswolds, the rugged beauty of the North has now worked her charm on me. It started at about 2am when I got up to use the loo and stopped, startled at the sight of the moonlit lake out of the bedroom window. Elterwater, where we are staying, is a Norse term for swan lake. Staring out the window that’s exactly what I thought of: the last scene in the ballet Swan Lake, specifically the Kirov Ballet production I saw years ago in Covent Garden.

This is a phenomenon I’ve experienced before, and I shall christen it “facsimile first.” It’s when you experience the replica before the real thing resulting in an eerie sense of dejavu when you finally do encounter the authentic article. It happened to me in many an English country church graveyard having been raised on the Haunted Mansion in Disneyland. It happened to my husband in Venice where much to my dismay he kept feeling like he was alternately visiting Las Vegas and a Baz Luhrman set.

My protests to explore the outer edges of lake Grasmere are going unheeded. Risk adverse husband has been scared off by the 18-year old’s mention of a were (I think that’s a miniature waterfall but husband is envisioning Niagra Falls) and we are heading back to the dock. I shall post this now and focus my remaining minutes on this most definite not-facsimile experience.

England Random

To Madge or Not To Madge

The title of this posting says it all. Madonna is not even called Madge in the states. That’s a nickname the tabloids of her adopted country have given her. It’s inevitable that after three years in the UK that British-isms now pepper my speech, but surely that doesn’t mean I sound like phony-Brit Madge?

Reading back through these blogs, there is rich evidence of my linguistic confusion. My mother in law is “in the hospital” (American) not “in hospital” (Madge). Yet a neighborhood is “posh”, not “ritzy.” But I left a message on the “answering machine” not the “answer phone.” Still, I managed to “let the side down.” I can hardly wait to work in “jolly hockey sticks” and “nip to the loo.”

Recently I sought the advice of M., local barman, former Fleet Street journalist, sometime butler and my favourite (favorite?) Cotswold Renaissance man on whether I was in danger of becoming a Madge.

“Rubbish,” he said and proceeded to assure me I was far from pulling a Ms. Ritchie.

His counsel was that reverting back to deliberate American speak would be ill-advised in the country. Walk into a rural pub demanding a beer and the wall goes up even further between local and outsider. Being a weekender is enough of a label without the Yank-thing to contend with.

So goodnight for now. I’m absolutely shattered and need a holiday.

Cotswolds

Summer Was This Weekend

Summer was this weekend, or so I suspect. After some glorious false starts in the spring, our summer so far has seen me to bed with my pajamas topped by the same grubby old cashmere sweater that I wore all winter.

The village on Saturday morning was like a country-themed “It’s a Small World” ride. Pensioners practically skipped into the local shop to collect their weekend papers. Four cats frolicked in the lane (cats! in all my years as a cat owner I’ve never seen a cat frolic and yet…) while white butterflies skittered above. As we set out on a bike ride husband still found something to moan about, but conceded it was an altogether more pleasant sight than the post-Friday night “cider cans in canal” tableau we’d face if setting out for a morning ride in London. (Thank god cider hasn’t made it’s way to the states yet – perhaps just a matter of time until the alcohol marketers make inroads).

In the evening we drove over to a rather grand country house hotel that was hosting an outdoor opera. It was too wonderfully British with elaborate picnics abounding—crystal flutes adorned more than one folding table. I even spotted a cravat. We fit in fairly well with our smoked salmon sandwiches and strawberries even if our plastic tumblers did let the side down (not to mention my husband chasing down photographers from Cotswold Life, the local mag, so he might make himself available for a photo op on the social pages). As night fell I was most impressed by the many tables that set out candles. Well, that and the portable loos which were the nicest I’d ever seen — think drop lighting and Molton and Brown soap. Thankfully the opera itself wasn’t too high brow. Without the aid of a programme husband recognized “the World Cup song” and “the British Airways ad from the eighties” song.

Sunday morning we went for our normal jog along back country lanes. I’ve lost all heat acclimitisation from L.A. I looked like a beet at the end and had hardly cooled down by the time we were showered and heading off with some neighbors to an afternoon hog roast/jazz concert in the field behind the village hall in G. Without aid of a portable marquee (the hallmark of the truly seasoned British picnicker) we roasted to the tunes of Artie Shaw. By the second bottle of cava we resorted to putting up our rain umbrellas for shade. Our collective stamina was as resolutely British as it had been several weeks earlier when we sat through three rainsoaked hours of outdoor Shakespeare under blankets and brollies. This is our summer and dammit we are going to have it.

England

Rural Life – Zeitgeist of the Noughties

Back in London walking up Kensington Church Street today I noticed a shiny new addition to the musty antiques stores, the Chegworth Farm Shop. I know Chegworth from their fruit stand at the Saturday morning Notting Hill Farmers Market in the parking lot just behind. It seems they decided to go for a more permanent foothold in this posh London neighborhood. They are not the first to figure out the urban lust for the simple life – Daylesford Organic in Harvey Nicks precedes them (I’ll save the Daylesford Organic in the real village of Daylesford in the Cotswolds for another blog or two).

At the risk of going all “Al Gore, I invented the Internet” on your ass, husband and I do think we were a bit bleeding edge with our escape to the country. It’s admittedly a bit paltry, but husband cites evidence in the fashion press: Paul Smith went flat caps and tweeds this spring; The Artic Monkeys donned the same at the Brits back in Feb., even if it was in jest. Husband also notes with pride he purchased tweeds and a flat cap from a gentleman’s shop in Cirencester way back in 2007. Paul Smith is apparently for posers

I personally think the country zeitgeist is all about the current nasties of the world: war in Iraq, credit crunch, property bust (shall I stop now?). Organic veg and designer wellies are a welcome retreat.

England

Syllabubs and Fools

In another life I am going to open a restaurant by the name of Syllabubs and Fools, inspired by Elizabeth David’s essay of a similar name in An Omelette and a Glass of Wine. I also have been meaning to write a food poem for the past two years in the vein of Calvin Trillan’s riff on eighties food, “What Happened to Brie and Chablis,” using all the wonderful British food words we don’t have in the States. I started collecting these words on Saturday morning visits to the Notting Hill Farmers Market before we started spending our weekends in the Cotswolds: aubergines, baby gem, baps, bangers, courgettes, cos, cox apples, gooseberries (that you top and tail, poetic verbs if I ever heard them), greengages, puddings, punnets, sultanas, sloes, and victoria plums. All of which I thought of today because I ate the creamiest, wholesome-ist, health-in-a-plastic-tub-ish gooseberry yogurt (the same one I so enjoyed buying on Saturday morning that I mentioned it in that day’s blog)…gooseberry of course being one of the best fruits for making a fool. Today’s lesson: eating a yogurt is easier than opening a restaurant or writing a poem.

Cotswolds

I Saw You Coming

Today is the one-year anniversary of the Gloucestershire floods that devastated a large part of the Cotswolds last summer.

By this time last year we were actively looking for our Cotswolds cottage, working with several local estate agents. On the morning after the flooding I called one of them to arrange a viewing and was highly irritated by getting an answering machine during business hours. I was to expect this sort of unprofessionalism when dealing with “rural folk” was the chastening I got from husband.

Little did our superior urbanite selves realize that the estate agent’s office was completely flooded. Bourton on the Water was now known as Bourton Under Water. And yes, the estate agent informed me when she returned my call mid-week, the lovely little cottage we had seen the previous week had also fallen victim.

When we were let into the cottage a few weeks later for a second viewing, the ground floor was in disarray. Industrial drying fans rumbled on bare concrete where flooring, damaged beyond repair, had been ripped away. We were still smitten, proving the adage that house purchases are emotional. Using the perverse logic that most married woman have resorted to at some point, I even saw the bright side of the flooding: there wouldn’t be any arguments with husband over replacing the industrial beige carpet and wood effect vinyl flooring – what would have been “perfectly good” floor coverings to him. (I realize how incredibly petty it is that I had this thought in the midst of devastation that is still wreaking havoc on so many people’s lives. I’m not proud, but at least I’m honest).

We made an offer on that visit. The owners probably couldn’t believe their luck so soon after the floods. Then again, they probably saw us coming.

Cotswolds

Morning in the Cotswolds

The kettle was boiling and the French press readied this morning when I realized we had no milk. This lack of basic provisions is a familiar annoyance in the weekly back and forth between London and the Cotswolds. With some exasperation I extricated myself from my pajamas and into some marginally suitable for public consumption clothing. I couldn’t be bothered to brush my teeth, I just hoped I wouldn’t run into anyone I knew. (This attitude is another hangover from London – you always run into someone you know in the market square!).

It’s a one block walk along a stone wall-lined lane to our local shop. Once inside my list expanded from milk to include 2 croissants (hooray they were ready early this morning!), a potato and cheese pastie for husband, an FT Weekend and a punnet of raspberries. This last item then created the requirement to walk across the green to the butcher who also happens to sell yogurt from the next village over. By now I was positively buzzing, chatting with the butcher as I juggled my wares (our town has gone green too, shopping bags cost 10p and proceeds go to charity). The whole experience is different from say the time last week when I went to get a pint of milk at the corner shop in London and the shopkeeper hawked a giant loogie straight onto the ground of his own shop while he took my money. Charming.

Six months in as an official (weekend) resident I am still in love with every aspect of village life. In fact I am most in love with the mundane routines, the pleasure of which seems to have been totally lost in an urban existence.

England

Boylestone Show is almost here!

Dear J, I will be sending you the latest glossy brochure of the Boylestone Show which this year promises to be even bigger than the Olympics. Your accom has been arranged here and we suggest you come Friday 22nd and leave when you feel up to it. Cheers. B&R

Said glossy brochure arrived today. Would think I’ve been invited for a weekend at Highgrove. Am over the moon just reading the Rules and Conditions of Entry, which are very serious indeed:
1. All entries to be submitted between 10am and 12noon and to remain on show until 4:30pm
2. No competitor may win more than ONE PRIZE in any class.
3. The Judge’s decision is FINAL
4. Horticulture and Cookery entries not claimed by 4:45pm deemed to have been given to the Village Hall and will be auctioned at 5:15pm.
5. Any protest must be made in writing, and the Committee will re-allocate prizes accordingly if the protest is upheld.
6. The Committee, while taking ordinary care, will not be responsible for any loss or damage to exhibits.
7. All exhibits shall have been made or grown by the exhibitor.
8. The winners of the Challeng Cups MUST undertake to return them to the Chairman at least two weeks before the Annual Show.

Boylestone isn’t in the Cotswolds, but now well into my second summer season in the Cotswolds it still sets the standard for me when it comes to the English tradition of village fetes/shows. This is what I wrote about it after my first visit in 2005. Sadly, Barbara the landlady has since passed away.:

Our afternoon started in the lovely, head ducking, timber-beamed pub, The Rose and Crown. The landlady, Barbara, looks alarmingly like Barbara Bush and greeted husband and me like regulars, including calling us “duck.” We ordered half-pints of Pedigree bitter (“Pedi”) and white rolls filled with roast beef and cheese. Someone had brought a pork pie and put it on the bar to share with a little dish of English mustard. While we ate, I admired the framed picture on the wall of Barbara and other villagers at the recent wedding of Charles and Camilla. For such a small place, there sure were a lot of them at the big event (apparently the village was a favourite of Charles’ from the days of the hunt). Next to the picture was a framed thank you note from the royal couple, graciously acknowledging the gift of a walking stick. Watered and fed, we walked to the Village Hall and Parish Church.

The Village Hall hosted the horticultural section of the show and S., a local doctor and home gardener, gave me a guided tour. For each plate of “six perfect shallots,” S. provided careful details of village provenance. There were speckled eggs, apples, pears, plums, runner beans, cauliflower and cabbage. Glossy red onions wore decorative green ties around their tops. Enormous marrows and elaborate vegetable boxes (category: “Collection of six kinds of home-grown vegetables in a box not larger than 2 foot square”) dominated the far wall. Rows of brilliant dahlias (large, medium, pom-pom, cactus), asters and gladioli ran the length of the hall.

Inside the church were the cookery, craft, flower arrangement, junior, teenage and photographic section entries. I took mental note of the items I wanted to bid on in the upcoming auction, including a child’s cap knitted to resemble a Christmas pudding, homemade wines, lemon curd, pickled onions, and Bakewell tarts (my favorite dessert).

At 5:15PM, the auction began. In no time, I worked myself into a frenzy worthy of a Damien Hirst on the block at Sotheby’s. A successful bid on the second place winner in the “Home-made Wine – Dry” category yielded me a bottle labelled “Parsip and Ginge.” Presumably this meant parsnip and ginger, an understandable mistake if the winemaker penned the label after consuming some of his or her own wares.

Six shortbread biscuits and a box of tomatoes later, I engaged in a fierce battle for a Bakewell tart. The bidding and my desperation escalated in step until husband gallantly interceded with a decisive bid of ₤5. Never have I felt so in love. When it was all over we also owned a trio of leeks, a baffling quantity of red onions, and a box of fancy Thornton’s mints that my husband won in the raffle — easily the best ₤10 we spent all summer.

England

The Town that Architects Forgot

Swindon is a “new town” which is British for a town that architects forgot. I had an interview there recently for a job as an IT director at a computing society. I don’t particularly want to be the IT director at a computing society but my company is in the middle of laying off half the global workforce and so it seemed like I should at least take advantage of the interview practice.Husband was very excited about this interview. He would be excited if I had an interview for a job as a window washer in Swindon. This is because Swindon is within commuting distance of our cottage in the Cotswolds. His vision: I could live full-time in the Cotswolds, we could sell or rent our London flat, and he could downsize to a studio during the week when he needs to be there. This is one step closer to his dream of a full-time life in the country. He thinks if I jump first this will embolden him to make the entrepreneurial move he dreams of in a year or so’s time.

Chicken.

We decided to drive to Swindon on the Sunday before the interview to scope it out. It was raining and cold and there was supposedly a movie theatre there to help us take our minds off the fact that we don’t seem to be having a summer this year. We drove to the train station first. Husband loves train stations and bemoaning the demise of the steam railways that used to connect many of the Cotswolds villages. Swindon in the rain was the most depressing place I’ve ever been. How could a city on the edge of the Cotswolds look this way? It shouldn’t be allowed.

I was impatient and wanted to leave the train station. Husband shouted, I pouted, and we drove back to our cottage without seeing a movie.I know it’s unrealistic to think I can work in a building that looks like the inside of the Mondrian hotel on the Sunset Strip forever, especially now that my company is owned by a cost conscious private equity firm. But for now that is where I work, all gleaming white and glass, nestled in the posh London neighborhood of Kensington, moments from Hyde Park and Holland Park and the only Whole Foods in England (another topic worthy of it’s own blog – oh the glory).

Aesthetics matter. I’m not just being shallow: philosophers know this and Alain de Botton wrote a whole book about it, The Architecture of Happiness.After the interview I was a little more optimistic. The building is in an office park with all the charm of Heathrow, but you get your own parking space. After three years of buses and tubes in London, the idea of driving to work and having a parking space reminds me of life in L.A. in a good way – lots of commute time to listen to Radio 4, the KCRW equivalent. The guy who interviewed me and would be my boss was nice, I could definitely work for him. As he walked me out of the office after the interview he pointed out a basket of fruit on a filing cabinet and informed me that free fruit was a perk of working at the company. He was being serious. I didn’t think it a good time to tell him we have a bar at my office. A week later I learned I didn’t get the job. Something about an epiphany when interviewing another candidate that they needed a much more technical person than spec’d. He didn’t even ask me any stupid technical questions! Nevermind how I feel about Swindon, my pride was hurt. If anybody’s looking for me I’ll be taking solace in Schopenhauer.