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Wedding Planning School

Having discounted my plan to top the proprietress of The Cotswold Ice Cream Company and assume her identity as a far too risky and frankly not very nice way to attain the rural entrepreneurial dream, I have signed up for wedding planning school in Bath this weekend.

Yes, I am still employed in my proper London job, but husband and I have been harboring the secret, embarrassing dream of starting The Cotswold Wedding Company. Being an obsessive compulsive project manager at my core, I will gantt chart brides’ rural wedding dreams into reality while husband films it all for the happy couples to enjoy for years to come.

I’ve just received an email informing me that my tutor for the weekend will be international wedding & motorsport event planner Amber Hunter. I am a little afraid of women named Amber (and motorsports for that matter). Whatever happens to my entrepreneurial dreams, I suspect Amber and her motorsport anecdotes will be good for a few blog posts.

Books Cotswolds Random

Redemption Looks Like Tom Cruise

Last weekend the pheasants appeared en masse in the Cotswolds, the humble brown hens and their queenie male companions tarted up like Louis XIV out for a country stroll. They have invaded the sheep fields, pecking and skittering about the flocks. The first time I saw a pheasant last year I was enamoured. The delight faded after the third or fourth time husband was forced to slam on the brakes to avert a panic-stricken pair who decided to run out in front of the car. They are stupid birds, and I pity the sheep.

The pheasants were the most idyllic thing about last weekend. It was tits up* from the start, which was marked by an aborted attempt to get out of town on Thursday night that ended with an argument at a West London gas station. We made it out on Friday in time to attend a long planned dinner party where I drank too much. Attempts to exorcise the hangover on Saturday with painkillers and fresh air failed where dinner at a Mexican chain restaurant in Cheltenham succeeded. The pleasure of the latter was promptly undone by going to see Mama Mia!.

Oh, Meryl.

The film produced an allergic reaction in me, triggered I suspect by Pierce Brosnan singing. The upside was that my sneezing drowned out the sound of husband’s blame for the film selection all the way home.

Sunday started full of promise with a trip to a charitable country house car boot sale (aka a flea market). It was planned for the grounds of Lord Vestey’s estate, Stowell Park, but was moved to a disused airfield in the next village over due to flooding. It’s been dry for a good week so I am cynical about the motives. I think Lord Vestey thought better of having the masses invade his estate, who were indeed a different crowd than the plant loving elderly crew from the previous open gardens day at Stowell Park.

Lord Vestey had hinted at royalty in attendance in the promotional interview I had read in this month’s Cotswold Life magazine. Instead we got Laurence Llewelyn-Bowen (think cable show interior designer if you’re American) and donations to a silent auction from HRH Princess Michael of Kent. She proffered a purple velvet bag of potpourri and a set of miniature wooden Christmas figurines, both of which looked just about worthy of a shelf in Oxfam. Honestly, she’s letting the royals down. Charlie is going to have to open another organic food porn store in the area (have I mentioned the newish Highgrove shop in Tetbury?) to make up for it. I had to go sit down in the shade with a half pint of 7.7% Old Rosie cider just to get over the disappointment.

Sunday descended into nothingness with husband bitter, complaining, and getting on my nerves—a pheasant to my sheep. On cue, the alarm failed to go off Monday morning and when we did get back to London there was no hot water thanks to some fault with the boiler.

Things only got better last night when we went to see Ben Stiller’s flick, Tropic Thunder. Tom Cruise as Les Grossman showing off his best dance moves since Risky Business was alone worth the price of admission.

*Speaking of “tits up,” I recommend Annie Proulx’s new book. One of the stories, “Tits Up in a Ditch” was published in the New Yorker earlier this year and, like Tom Cruise in Tropic Thunder, the book is worth the purchase price for it alone.

Cycling England

London Love Lost

This morning was crisp and sunny, the start of a perfect autumn day. That and the fact I was running late motivated me to ride my bike to work, something I’ve done far too infrequently of late. Implausible as it may sound, I can make it in faster on a bike that on a bus. The other advantage of a bike is I can’t use my BlackBerry.

As I was riding along Kensington Palace Gardens, a grand private street (but public to cyclists) housing many of the world’s embassies to the UK, I was feeling a bit of affection for London that I haven’t felt for a long time. For once, the superiority of the countryside wasn’t readily apparent. I even thought I’d blog about how much I liked London today.

Then I turned onto Kensington High Street, the busy thoroughfare at the bottom of embassy row. Police were everywhere, and, whoa, that’s a helicopter parked in the middle of the road. People were gawking and holding up mobile phones to photograph or video the scene. We were close to a tube and a terrorist attack crossed my mind, but the emergency vehicles were more fire brigade than bomb squad. Despite riding my bike I was still late, so I moved on.

Once at work my colleague explained the ruckus: a cyclist had been knocked off of his or her bike by a double-decker bus. The air ambulance was called and apparently an emergency leg amputation had to be performed. Suddenly my feeling of virtuousness about riding my bike to work seemed naive and misplaced. My London love evaporated as quickly as it had appeared.

Cotswolds Cycling

Post Mistress Envy

Nothing has come of the talk of an Indian Summer, but it was dry on Saturday so husband and I set off on a favorite bike route. Like many of our “healthy” activities, this involves several stops for refreshments, the first of which is a pot of coffee at the post office in the village of G.P. The post office closures that caused outrage up and down Britain when announced in the spring have finally caught up with postmistress Chris. Her service has been scaled back to twice a week and she is trying to compensate with an increased emphasis on the shop. She’s even become an agent of a rural dry cleaner.

While we were drinking our coffee an older local lady came in and introduced her also mature friend to Chris. This friend had become something of a local hero for putting up a fight that saved her own village post office. Tall and stick-straight, she had an unruly yet regal shock of white hair. She was dressed in sensible country attire of the corduroy and v-neck jumper variety that’s not particularly age or gender specific. She was also quite hard of hearing and greeted congratulations from Chris with a harsh “what?” as if it was Chris at fault for not speaking up. I could imagine why local officials backed down from her. I too wanted to congratulate her, having been enamoured with the concept of the post mistress ever since I watched the BBC production of Lark Rise to Candleford over the winter. It follows 19th century life in two rural villages in nearby Oxfordshire with a feisty postmistress, Dorcas, as protagonist. It’s a British version of Little House on the Prairie and I can’t wait for the second series.

After G.P., it’s a short but hilly ride to the next village over, which happens to have a good pub. There I rediscovered the culinary delight that is a pickled egg nestled in a bed of ready salted crisps as we surfed the weekend papers. This combination of vinegar and salt / soft and crisp achieves the same balance of flavour as the breakfast food that previously inspired me to poetic ends in this blog: fried bread and marmalade (which I proudly compared, in verse, to fruit compote and foie gras terrine).

One more steep hill and across a ridge before we ate our packed lunch of coronation chicken sandwiches in the tourist village of Lower Slaughter. There I also hit Christmas gift gold. Yes, I know it’s only September but one has to take advantage of these things when one comes across them. So as not to completely give the surprise away I will just say it involves naked British farmers and a charitable cause.

The last leg is the hardest. First it’s down through Bourton-on-the-Water, which has excellent public toilets but other than that is notable only for more teeming hordes of tourists. Then it’s up for a long time. There’s a nice bench on the ridge to catch your breath before the hills start to roll again. The Cotswolds Ice Cream Company (see Saturday’s blog) is conveniently placed at the end of the route for motivation.

Cotswolds

Murder, She Blogged

I want to kill someone. My target is the proprietress of Cotswold Ice Cream. I shall then assume her dreamy identity, creating and pedalling fair-trade dairy products from her hilltop farm.

I was inspired by a recent article in the New Yorker about Frédéric Boudin, a Frenchman and professional impostor. His biggest con was getting the Spanish authorities to believe he, at the age of 23, was a missing child from Texas who had been kidnapped by a European porn ring. The American authorities flew him to Texas where he was reunited with the family of the missing teenager. He lived with them for nearly five months before being exposed by a local private eye. The story is extraordinary and true, and I’ll put my money on a Hollywood studio having a version on the big screen by next summer.

My cunning plan to achieve the ideal rural life is of course flawed. Bourdin spent six years in a Texas jail, and he didn’t even kill anyone. Should any local law enforcement be reading this, you can relax. For now I will content myself with a tub of Cotswold Ice Cream’s passion fruit and mango madness.

Cotswolds Random

Protestant Guilt

Since I mentioned Protestant guilt in a recent post, I thought I’d expand on the theme. Both husband and I have it, a legacy from mothers who regularly dragged us to Sunday school. It generally takes the form of “we don’t deserve this,” and the intensity varies depending on the volume of wine consumed and number of telephone customer service reps I’ve lost my temper with that particular week. It’s a more vanilla type of guilt than the sex/mother anxiety and acting out I’ve observed in my lapsed Catholic friends (and Fellini). How typically Protestant.

I try to tell myself mitigating things like our cottage is the size of a shed on the estate of a truly rich Cotswoldian. It doesn’t really work. Nor is there any solace in the £50 contribution to charity that’s automatically deducted from each of my paychecks. In fact, I’m embarrassed to write down the number because it’s so low. There’s just no getting away from the fact that we own three properties (the third is our LA rental), are middle class and overfed.

I can’t justify why a second home or any number of the other excessive things I do—£16 hair conditioner and eating out five times a week to name a few—are ok in a world as fucked as ours, but then again two Zen masters could never really satisfactorily explain to me why “everything is exactly as it should be.” In the past year I’ve just accepted that I like the sound of church bells and birds, witnessing the seasons, and that being in the country seems to have some chemical effect for the better on husband’s depression. On a good day, I even try to be grateful.

Cotswolds

Cotswold Cult Explained – The Court Leet

Today as I was wedged underneath a London conference room table unplugging my laptop, a man popped his head in to ask if I knew where so and so was. With my ass still in the air I called out that I did not know so and so, but this man seemed to know me. He enquired if by chance I had been in a butcher shop in our Cotswold town over the weekend clad in lots of lycra and a bicycle helmet. I had. What are the chances of being caught in two compromising situations in one week by the same person?

It turns out I am not the only employee of my company to have discovered the charms of our lovely little Cotswold town. T. has lived there for 16 years, commuting into London every day. We exchanged lots of gushing about our town, things like the joy of walking out your front door to pick blackberries for a cobbler. Then he started telling me about an annual town dinner called “The Leet,” and it clicked that this was what G. was describing to us the wine bar a few weeks prior.

My vision of a Cotswold cult was wide of the mark, but this is a case where truth is better than fiction. It’s the kind of thing that an American eats up about living in England. Even husband was charmed by the revelation.

The annual Court Leet dates back to 1227 when King Henry III granted our town a charter entitling it to a weekly market. The town’s men have an unbroken record of meeting for the Leet annually since the charter was granted to elect honorary officials to oversee the market. Their duties include making the rounds of the local pubs and reporting on the quality of the brews. The Leet is a sort of democratic state of the union, only about important things like beer. Children get in on the action too, roaming the streets banging tin cans. When they knock at your door you are supposed to ask them who the new High Bailiff is and give them a coin for their can, a capitalist version of Halloween.

An invitation is a tricky thing, fraught with sensitivities. Some men who have been resident for years have yet to receive one. If G. pulls it off for husband it will be a coup. I’m not banking on it as G. is prone to bluster, but, for the blog’s sake, I hope it comes through.

Cotswolds

We Are Here in the Cotswolds in Lieu of a Divorce

“We are here on this island in the middle of the Pacific in lieu of filing for a divorce” is a line from one of my favourite books, The White Album, by Joan Didion. I suspect husband and I first found ourselves in the Cotswolds in lieu of mourning. It was around the time of his mother’s death when we started looking for cottages to buy last summer. The feverish pace of our viewings and an impetuous string of unreasonable offers gave it away.

But this quickly morphed into a concern that we were in the Cotswolds in lieu of facing the reality of our relationship. This was most often voiced in the midst of a flaming fight as: “Our marriage is fucked. We have no right to buy a second home, we can’t even get along.” Add in our combined Protestant guilt dictating a second home is a sinful indulgence, and we were truly fucked.

I thought about all this when I was in New York last month and met up with an old friend from university for dinner. We have a lot in common despite the fact that she is a new mother and I am childless. Like my husband, she suffers from depression. Like her husband, I’ve blamed some of my own issues on my spouse’s depression. All four of us struggle with the elusive balance between fulfilling work and paying the bills. She told me how the baby has been a joyful experience and at the same time very hard on her marriage. To let her know not she is not alone I shared this story about the day my marriage was most fucked in the Cotswolds.

Husband and I were at last year’s summer fair in the field behind the cottage we now own. The local cricket team was running a BBQ and husband and I were standing in line. He turned to me to demand something. I don’t remember what. Another hamburger? What I do remember is that his mouth was still full with his first hamburger and his contempt was both perfect and complete as he barked his order at me. I headed for the drinks tent to buy myself a beer and give myself some mental cool down space. I was furious about the way he had spoken to me, much less in public.

Like the best spousal spats, this one had pressed all my childhood hot buttons about my father behaving like a monster towards my mother. In two seconds I was back on Shalley Circle in the swimming pool with my childhood friend Patti Stephenson. As my father’s shouting boomed out the louvered windows of his den onto the patio, I bobbed furiously, mortified, willing him to shut up, and acknowledging nothing to Patti.

Back at the summer fair husband and I spent the next half an hour on various machinations over mobile phones, laughable in a town the size of a postage stamp with mobile reception only if you stand on one foot in the market square with the wind blowing in the right direction. This culminated in a declaration from husband that we were leaving, a well worn party trick of his. It works like this: when he’s mad at me he threatens not do something I want to do or to leave somewhere he knows I want to stay; I get hooked, never mind the fact that by the time this happens the situation has invariably become so unpleasant that any person in his right mind would also want to go.

Once in the car headed for London it was husband’s turn to have his childhood hot buttons pressed. I was screaming and spitting and morphing before his very eyes into his schizophrenic mother wielding an axe on the hood of his father’s car. Personally I think that’s a reasonable tactic for a wife and mother to engage to try and prevent her alcoholic husband from going to the pub, but that’s another story.

Luckily, where both husband and I differ from our parents is in our ability to back down from a fight almost as quickly as we got there. It took about 30 miles before we had a tearful reconciliation at a Tesco gas station on the A40. We made it back to the summer fair in time to see six black labs performing tricks in the field.

In the end I told my friend in New York divorce was out of the question. It would be too embarrassing to have to tell people I left husband for talking to me with his mouth full.

Cotswolds

Safe For Now

After sandbagging our front door late yesterday afternoon, husband and I set off for a walk. I am still seeing new things after almost nine months of being a weekend resident. For one, there are blackberries all over the country lanes. I ate a few and they tasted like blueberries to me. Maybe it’s one of those things where a wild blackberry really tastes like a blueberry but I’ve been conditioned to think it tastes different by supermarket mass-produced varieties. Or maybe the wild blackberries are just struggling to ripen in our sun deprived stretch of countryside. Either way, when we got back the road had totally drained and Mill House felt brave enough to close their front gate and dam the river previously running through it.

We’re not out of the woods yet though. It was dry today but more rain is on it’s way. Fingers crossed the brief reprieve has dried things out enough to make it through the week.

Cotswolds

A River Runs Through It

A river runs through our Cotswold town, but for the second time in just over a year that river has changed course and is running through the front yard of Mill House. Water is just under a foot deep in the road outside the house, about a block away from our cottage, and for now the drains are coping. The weather isn’t helping: skies are thick grey and the mist is persistent.

We’ll put sandbags out this afternoon and make sure the neighbors have our mobile numbers before we head back to London tomorrow. I know there is nothing else we can do to control mother nature. Still I am anxious, going through the motions of the day—cooking breakfast, the gym—with a length of hot worry between the base of my throat and my stomach.

The last time I was this close to natural disaster was in 2003 when fires ravaged Southern California from San Diego to LA. I was out in San Bernardino with my mother, visiting my grandparents. We watched all morning, somewhat detached, as a ridge of fire moved closer and closer across the foothills. This was a detachment borne from my grandparents having lived through this almost annual event for 60+ years. But unlike past years, this time the fire department knocked on the door in the early afternoon and ordered a mandatory evacuation. There was nothing else they could do to protect the street.

In classic fashion my 89-year old grandfather refused to go, wanting to stay behind to protect the house. We packed up my grandmother and her cat, told my grandfather to hurry up and left him behind with his taupe Buick as we headed for safety to some relatives across the valley in Redlands. It must have gotten bad because my stubborn grandfather showed up about an hour later. Thanks only to a more stubborn neighbor who stayed behind and drained his pool out onto my grandparents’ property did their house survive.

The aftermath of the fires in San Bernardino looked like a war zone, empty lots except for chimneys and swimming pools. The aftermath of last year’s historic Cotswolds floods was more hidden from view since damage was largely internal. But on Friday I noticed a large hose and a pump still in the sitting room of a neighbor as we chatted by her front door. I am saying my prayers she doesn’t need it again.