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Cotswolds England

Maid of Ale

I was reading a New Yorker today, a profile of Gary Snyder, Zen poet and environmentalist. This passage made me feel validated and a little bit proud about our new life in the Cotswolds:

“Using Kitkitdizze [Snyder’s hand built house] as a prototype, he encourages others to inhabit more fully the places they live—settle down, get to know the neighbors (including in his conception, the plants and animals), join the school board and the watershed council, and defend the local resources and way of life. Place, he writes, should be defined by natural indicators, like rivers and the flora and fauna they support.”

Our Cotswold town is defined, literally named, for it’s place along one of Gloucestershire’s rivers. But it’s not the first time since moving to England that I’ve lived in a place named for its natural indicators. In London we live in Maida Hill, right next to it’s more glamorous cousin, Maida Vale. At one time hill and vale must have been obvious, but covered as they are now in pavement and plaster, it’s hard to make them out. That’s the excuse I’ll use for how I thought you spelled Maida Vale when I first moved here: Maid of Ale, a neighborhood I assumed was named for a long departed, much loved busty lady slinging tankards of beer.

Random

The People Have Spoken

The people (especially the younger one’s) have spoken and we defer to them and the need for “change.” Congratulations! We will see you back for the next congressional elections in two years. May this new President be blessed with wisdom and strength (and economic knowledge——–there is no free lunch). Hold on to your wallets! DAD and MOM

I got this email from my staunch Republican father today. I found it remarkably gracious compared to our previous discussions on the subject. Husband and I had worried he would still be sulking at Christmas when we visit. Looks like all that can now be channeled into his displeasure at not having been made a grandfather yet. Oh, the anticipation…

Cotswolds

Morning Shift on the Coal-Face

Saturday morning I paid for the bottle of red wine consumed during the previous evening’s tutelage. Husband was in the same boat and so we spent much of the day sprawled in front of the wood burning stove watching television, with only the occasional outing to the market square for supplies.

On my first of these I bought an FT along with some chocolate biscuits and Coca-Cola. The former contained advice from a newly published volume by Kingsley Amis on coping with a hangover, my favourite of which was, “Go down the mine on the early-morning shift at the coal-face.” Having no such resources at my disposal, Chinese takeout and episodes from the last season of Curb Your Enthusiasm would have to do.

Despite my hangover, I was cheered by the outcome of another stop on my morning errands. Having realized my cash card had gone missing, I dropped into the post office where I had used it the day before. From behind her perch at the cash register, dreary postmistress greeted me with, “Cold out there.”

“And it’s started to rain,” I said, figuring I might as well join in.

“Well, it is Saturday,” she said, summarizing her defeatist life view by way of the weather. How exceptionally British.

Thankfully, my cash card was there, tucked safely in a drawer behind the counter and demonstrating a more redeeming feature of rural British life.

Cotswolds

My Own Private Royal Agricultural College

My rural education in country drinking establishments continues. Last night J. showed up at the wine bar still in his gear from the day’s shoot. I made the mistake of asking him if he had been out hunting, to which he responded that no, he hadn’t been anywhere near a horse nor a fox. The immediate coterie of men around me then chided, almost in unison, “You hunt foxes, you shoot birds, and you stalk deer.”

Well, excuse me. In south Florida where I grew up it’s all just got called huntin’, unless of course you’re fishin’ (which the British have to tart up to angling) or, at a stretch, lobster trapping. It would be rather amusing to send this contingent out for a day’s hunting with my cousin Jason or, even better, Berta (short for Robert), the older brother of one of my best childhood friends. Such an outing would include copious amounts of camo, ammo, Busch beer (in cans of course), and possibly an airboat. They would probably all get on like a house on fire.

Just to further annoy J., I told him I liked his knickers, which happens to be Brit speak for panties. I was referring to his knickerbockers or plus 2s as they’re known — pants that fall just below the knee that Americans associate with old fashioned golfers but are also worn for shooting here.

Following my brush up on country sporting verbs, J. introduced me to the wife of our local celebrity, also American. She’s apparently a keen hunter (of the fox variety), but we spent most our time talking about the election. At least now I can say I’ve met her since, inexplicably, people always ask me if I know her when they realize I am American too.

The evening returned to theme when I was introduced to two modern day shepherds. D. manages the estate that borders our town, M. an estate in a neighboring village. They were forthcoming with sheep trivia, including that they raise a Welsh variety and that a ewe has about five years of lambing in her. When I asked what happens to the ewes after that, they both laughed and said “Asia.” By which they apparently meant Birmingham. By which I have no idea what they meant but presume it’s to supply a vast network of Brummie curry houses or to export it.

But both D. and M. wanted to talk about sheep dog trials more than sheep. Apparently the Americans are crazy for the sport, and D. and M. just had a group over for a week to teach them the finer points. The closest I could come to contributing to this conversation was anecdotes about my childhood pet, Greta, an old English sheep dog known for her prowess at running through sliding glass doors. It turns out sheep dog trials are run with border collies.

Cotswolds

Food Porn

Marks and Spencer’s close-up television ads of oozing chocolate pudding put the term “food porn” on the British map. Surely though the grandaddy of all food porn is in the Cotswolds at Daylesford Organic.

At Daylesford barns have been transformed into a pristine retail mecca in a hamlet not far from Stow-in-the-Wold. Visitors come from near and far to pay homage to the spiritual home of organically reared, locally produced, seasonal food porn. It makes Chez Panisse look like a shack.

The first building in the complex houses the café cum deli/bakery cum grocery store, and as you approach it there is an outdoor display of seasonal produce arrayed on stacked antique cartons or a donkey cart or some other suitably rustic stage set. Vegetables are the stars here, and I am sure they have their own stylists.

Behind the food store there is a butcher, stocked by the in-house abattoir, and a kitchenware shop, a curated selection of gardening porn, a clothing store, and a spa called the haybarn. If you were very rich you could furnish your entire Cotswold estate in a single shopping trip to Daylesford without having to scour car boot sales and reclamation yards like me.

Yesterday we went for a late lunch at Daylesford. The café is good value if you throw in the occasional star sighting (Gary Barlow from Take That last time, the actor Charles Dance this time). I had a welsh rarebit tarted up with some artisanal cheese and portobello mushrooms. Husband started with some bread and olive oil, fresh from the presses of Daylesford’s sister estate in France, before moving on to braised red cabbage and ham.

Afterwards I selected a small chunk of parmesan and a courgette from the shop to use in our evening meal. Apparently nobody’s told the checkout girl, young and stylish in the shop’s trademark tasteful brown, where she works. “This is a courgette, right?” she asked me, holding up the plump green vegetable for examination before plopping it on the scale.

Cotswolds

A Collector Is Born

The Cotswold palette is still predominantly green, but the big bingo dabber in the sky has added great orbs of lemon rust and green gold. Leaves are falling and for the last few weeks I’ve wondered if the autumn colours have peaked. The scenery has changed less dramatically week by week than it seemed to in the spring and summer, but I suspect I’ll show up one weekend soon to find the desolation of bare branches and darkness (the clocks went back today). Just before dusk, rays of sunlight broke through the canopy of gray turning the blobs of fall colour into glimmering, quaking masses.

It looked just like a picture husband bought last fall, a watercolour scene of a lone huntsman, and husband’s first foray into art collecting. I suspect his purchase from a local gallery was as motivated by a desire to be accepted within his new community as it was by the object itself. I was condescending about his selection to start. It’s a stereotypical scene: huntsman, lone fox, and a dry stone wall.

Other than scratching their noses and feeding them apples, husband and I are about as far away from horse people as you can get. Buying this picture struck me at best as disingenuous, at worst embarrassingly obvious—something Tony Soprano might pick if he uprooted his family from New Jersey to Gloucestershire. Husband prevailed in the face of my self-consciousness. Not only did he buy the hunt scene, a few weeks later he bought a Cecil Aldin etching, the exterior of a rural pub framed on the left by a gnarled old oak, at another local gallery. At this rate of spend, I no longer needed to feel sheepish about the amount of free wine we were quaffing at these monthly openings. And the huntsman, now standing watch over our bed, has grown on me over the months too. I thought about transplanting the Gilbert and George print from our London flat for this spot, but thought better of it. Irony just doesn’t go with ticking stripe and gingham.

Cotswolds

Bingo!

Last night we attended a bingo fundraiser for the cricket club in the G.P. village hall. It was a brilliant evening, but British restraint disappointed. Instead of yelling “bingo!” when they got a line, these polite people simply raised an arm, signalling the monitor to come check their card. I vowed to husband to uphold the American oral tradition of bingo should my numbers come in. But when, in game six, they did, so did self-consciousness and up went my right arm. Despite my cultural betrayal, I was rewarded with a bottle of Croft Original Pale Cream Sherry, the label of which husband decorated with polka dots using his bingo dabber pen.

I am making up for an adult lifetime of shattered California Lotto dreams with the excellent odds of village life. Last weekend husband won a bottle of champagne in the raffle at the wine tasting fund raiser. Between this and the sherry, we’re practically stocked for Christmas.

Cotswolds

All the Interesting People Live in the Country

Last night I was reminded of my theory that all the interesting people live in the country. At the very least there is a disproportionate population of raconteurs who drink at our local wine bar. The evening’s anecdotes ranged from political opinions from the wife of a former ambassador to Israel to winding up a German surgeon who’s recently relocated from Berlin to the Cotswolds and has taken up duck hunting, replete with bad jokes about Germans chasing Englishman around the countryside.

I have a diary entry from last year that shows that, by wine bar standards, last night was nothing special. On that particular evening I first met a former covert ops man who told me about his latest manoeuvre: a rescue operation for his Notting Hill banker son. Said son had a live-in Scandinavian girlfriend with snakes for pets who “took advantage” and had to be forcibly removed in the early morning hours, along with her mooching friends and the snakes and the decomposing bodies of once-frozen mice. I suppose that’s where having a former covert ops man for a dad comes in handy, although it does strike me that a former covert ops man is the least likely person to tell you he is former covert ops.

Next was a fat Blackpudlian with a little dog. His daughter was going to work at the Guggenheim Palazzo in Venice, next door to Casa Artom where I once lived.

Last were a couple who own the inn down the road. He’s a Michael Caine look alike, and she’s a be-pearled, pashmina-ed lady from Fulham who told us how her mother would roll in her grave if she knew her daughter had married a publican. We all laughed and talked about how the BBC has gone to the dogs but the NHS is still brilliant. When in Rome…

England

The Contract Is in the Mail

I’ve signed the contract for a new life in the country. It’s in the mail, and now all that remains is to negotiate an end date to my city life when my boss returns from vacation next week. I’m on three months notice, but I’d like to just work out the end of this year. Start afresh in 2009 and all that.

After my weekend negotiation angst, the HR ladies got back to me on Monday. There was no more money but there was, despite my irrational musings, still an offer. Ironically the failure to come up with more cash brought clarity to the decision. When I got the news, I immediately knew I was going to accept. Being a stupid human, I told them I had to think about it, then called back in fifteen minutes to say yes.

Husband’s depression-riddled and infuriating ambivalence about the job lifted once it was clear I had made a decision. The whole thing was reminiscent of our move to England, when he got cold feet and I became the unlikely late supporter supplying the required brio. He just wanted me to make a decision.

Earlier that morning husband and I had played our old favourite ‘captains of contingency’ game: what’s the worse that could happen? The biggest flaw with me taking this job is that we’ll be spending two nights apart while he continues to work primarily in London. If this becomes a source of misery for either of us, we reasoned I could beg my new employer to transfer me to the office that’s commutable from London.

Husband also one upped me in the worst case scenario/captain of contingency stakes. He figured if the pressure of working for his lordship gets all too much and he cracks or gets fired, a convalescence in the country is far more attractive than a London meltdown. In other words, my new life in the country has something in it for him.

Cotswolds

The Bishop, the Mistress, the Scribe, and the General

Church yesterday was full of surprises. The Bishop of Gloucester made a guest appearance in the tiny, ancient church hosting the service for our benefice. This is my second bishop sighting in as many months, a good track record considering my spotty history of church attendance in the last twenty years.

Stevie Winwood, the worst kept celebrity secret in this corner of the Cotswolds, was also there. He was sitting right next to the dreary postmistress who had been at our very table the night before at the wine tasting fundraiser. Last night her complaints were drowned in a tide of Beaujolais. Church also seemed a safe place to sit beside her, hymns and the etiquette of silence a safe harbour from her litany of woe.

The bishop preached a sermon on the economic crisis, surprising me with his liberal touches. He warned against jumping to the conclusion that the meltdown was a punishment from God for capitalist greed, citing parallels with the rush to condemn homosexuality at the onset of the AIDS crisis in the eighties. He went on to talk about using this as an opportunity to revert to a simpler, greener way of life — a splendid eco-warrior in his kelly green robe and golden pope hat.

Most Sundays a good sing song in church is enough to power husband through the day. But even today’s star-studded version wasn’t enough to hold back a plunge into depression. I’d almost forgotten about it over the past few months, buried as it was underneath the manic efforts in his new job. Of course I knew the early mornings and late nights and the fact that the only conversations that seemed to hold his attention were work related was less than healthy. This was just the latest version of a lid on the boiling pot even if, as far as coping mechanisms go, it was much preferable to watching husband spend four hour stretches on the couch watching repeats of property shows.

This is how the dynamic of depression works in our relationship. There’s a good patch of days or weeks or even months, fuelled by meds or work success or some other stroke of luck. Things are so “normal” that when a depression does set in – and it always does – I feel shocked. It’s as if an old lover of husband’s has showed up at the door and asked me, straight-faced, to come in for a shag with him. How dare she come back after all this time? And yet I know I have to let her in, and she’ll stay as long as she likes. My efforts to expel her with logic and reason and breaking down problems into manageable chunks just leave me feeling exasperated. All the while the mistress waits patiently on the couch for me to exhaust myself and stomp out of the room.

Yesterday’s mistress brought along the same old baggage, conflating every issue related to my new job offer with husband’s entire human history of regret and resentment. Gone was his encouragement and infectious enthusiasm that prompted me to look for a job in the country to start. In its place was a whole raft of unattractive insecurities that, in their essence, amounted to a concern over who was going to take care of him if I was spending all my time in the country. Next time perhaps the mistress could be polite enough not to show up in the middle of a life changing decision, although she’s never been known for tact.

By the time I walked into the Everyman Theatre to hear Julian Fellowes speak in the evening, I was primed for some words of wisdom, some advice, a sign from God – anything really that would help me decide whether or not to take this job. It was the final day of The Cheltenham Literature Festival, and Mr. Fellowes, director (of Gosford Park), writer (of the fine Snobs) and actor, did oblige.

“When life opens a door you have to go through it, don’t you,” he responded at one point to a question from the interviewer.

That was it. A perfect if cliched summary of what I had to do. This job was on the table and I had to take it.

But wait, what is Mr. Fellowes talking about now? Something about that sick feeling when as an actor you find yourself cast in a role to which you can offer nothing, cast through some happenstance of the right actor just not being available. Has Mr. Fellowes also been wondering why I’ve been made a generous offer to do a job I’ve never really done before after only one in-person meeting?

Useless old thesp. Useless husband. I am on my own with this decision.

Finally and thankfully, General Powell is not suffering from my crisis in decision making. As speculated in the weekend papers, news came at the end of the day that he’s endorsed Obama. On the matter of Palin he maintained his characteristic reserve, stating simply that she is not ready to be president. Ms. Palin pushes so many people’s buttons, including my own, that such understatement has been rare in the public discourse about her. And for that General Powell was all the more effective.